Sharpen the family's alpine skis - simple step by step

88 degrees, which corresponds to a 2-degree side edge angle, is a good all-round choice for regular piste skiing. If the ski’s existing factory angle is known, you should generally keep it. 89 degrees gives a less aggressive bite, while 87 degrees is more aggressive and is rarely necessary for normal family skiing.

Yes, when talking about the side edge. 88 degrees describes the angle between the side of the steel edge and the plane of the base, while 2 degrees describes the deviation from a right angle of 90 degrees. Check how your particular tool is marked.

No. The file removes relatively much steel and should be used when the edge is clearly dull, rounded, or damaged. For normal maintenance, a diamond stone is usually enough. The more often you do light maintenance with a stone, the less often the file needs to be used.

Medium 400 is the most useful all-round choice for the family's skis. Coarse 200 is used for more pronounced burrs and damage, while Fine 600 is suitable for final polishing. If you only buy one stone, 400 is normally the easiest place to start.

Follow the stone’s instructions. Most diamond stones work best moistened with water or the intended grinding fluid. The liquid helps carry away metal particles. Dry the stone and steel edge thoroughly after the work.

Not in the simple family guide. The base bevel affects how the ski behaves and is difficult to restore once it has been increased. If you have a base edge guide that matches the ski’s existing angle, a thin hanging burr can be removed with a very fine stone and extremely light pressure. Otherwise, leave the base edge to a full edge service.

When the plastic above the steel edge prevents the file or stone from sitting correctly against the steel. Remove only enough material for the tool to have a clear path. This is a less frequent step and should not be done at every maintenance session.

Dry them after every ski day. Check and polish with a diamond stone when you feel burrs, see light surface rust, or notice reduced grip on hard snow. The exact interval depends on the snow surface, contact with rocks, the ski’s steel, and how often the skis are used.

Not as a routine on modern piste skis. An evenly sharp edge is often more predictable. If the ski feels hooky or difficult to control, the edge angles, base flatness, and any damaged sections should be checked before you start detuning the tip or tail.

For deep rock gouges, a cracked or deformed steel edge, heavy rust, an uneven base, unknown edge geometry, or when you want to change the base bevel. Also bring the ski in if the file does not make even contact despite a correct guide and a cleared sidewall.