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Sharpen Steel Edges

How do you sharpen your steel edges in the best way?

We start this guide with a little general introduction to angles and tools. Then follows a very short step-by-step guide on how to sharpen your steel edges. Last but not least, we have the same steps described in depth. Happy reading!

(If you are "just" looking for sharp edges on the family's slalom skis, you can read this simpler guide)

Right now! - If you shop for over 1000 kronor at one time, we'll give you a 10% discount!

Some thoughts on angles and tools

Sharpening steel edges no longer means taking a file from the toolbox and going along the outer edge. No, it's now a whole science with many different specialized tools. Additionally, the steel edge should be sharpened on two sides - both on the base edge (the underside of the ski) and on the side edge (the steel edge on the outer sides of the ski). The steel edge is also sharpened at different angles depending on how the ski will be used and by whom. More on that below.

Angling the base edge "Hanging the edge"

The size of the angle on the base edge affects the ski's ability to be angled against the snow. The larger the angle, the easier it is to maneuver the ski from side to side without the edge catching unintentionally. The smaller the angle, the faster the entry into turns, but more leg strength and control are needed to maintain control of the skis in the turn. Keep in mind that if you angle the base edge too much, it's an irreversible decision; you cannot reduce the angle without first grinding down the entire base. Be very careful when setting the angle with a file and maintain it thereafter only with fine diamond stones.

Below you have guidelines for different angles on the base edge. If you find that the ski catches too early in turns, increase the angle in steps of a maximum of a quarter degree and test thoroughly again.

Recommended base angles
  • Slalom -- 0 to 0.5 degrees
  • GS -- 0.5 to 0.75 degrees
  • Super G -- 0.75 to 1.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Expert -- 0.75 to 1.0 degrees
  • All Mountain Beginner/Advanced -- 1.0 degrees

Choosing the angle on the side edge

Now you should also decide the angle of your side edges. Higher angles (counted from 0) should be reserved for experienced racers. If the angle is too high, the ski can "take off" for a less experienced skier. Typical angles are 2.0 to 3.0 degrees (On the tools, these are often referred to as 88 to 87 degrees, as the degree number on the tools means the difference from a right angle which is 90 degrees). Less angle equals less grip. Slalom angles can be as much as 3.0 to 5.0 degrees, downhill up to 3.0 degrees. Most racers use 2-3 degrees. Note: An aggressive, more pointed edge (high angle) can be harder for lighter skiers and can make it more difficult to recover from being up on the edge.

A little extra knowledge: Also consider the angle you have "hung the edge" with when you think about what total angle you want on your steel edges. The total angle of the steel edge, i.e., how sharp it becomes, also includes that angle. Since your guide for filing the outer edge will rest on the base which is flat, you must subtract the angle you have hung the edge with.

Recommended side edge angles
  • Slalom -- 2 / 88 degrees (-U10/U12) to 3 / 87 degrees (Skilled U12/U14/U16)
  • GS -- 2 / 88 degrees (-U10/U12) to 3 / 87 degrees (U14/U16)
  • Super G -- 2 / 88 (U14/U16) to 3 / 87 degrees
  • DH -- 2 / 88 (U16)
  • All Mountain Expert -- 2 / 88 to 3 / 87 degrees
  • All Mountain Beginner/Advanced -- 1 / 89 to 2 / 88 degrees

Which edge tools should I use? A multi-tool (side and base or several angles in one tool) or dedicated tools (one tool for each angle)?

Multi-tools are more convenient and easier to use. They provide accurate results even for beginners. This is an excellent choice for beginners, and the advanced models are a tool that does everything a skier/boarder needs to do during the ski's lifetime and is an excellent choice for a family with skiers of different ages. A disadvantage is that they can be limited to only using certain sizes of files. Additionally, the range of really fine diamond stones is limited in multi-tools.

Fixed guides are tools that tend to be dedicated to one angle (although there are some models that are more adjustable). These have the advantage of being able to use almost any file. You have a greater feel for the grinding process with dedicated tools, and it can be a good choice for the serious competitive skier.

Make sure you always use water together with your file and stone, the result will be much better, and the lifespan of your tools will increase significantly. An old ice cream box or similar filled with water should be on your waxing table.

How often do I need to sharpen the steel edges?

You should sharpen the steel edges as little as possible. Maintenance is only done via the side edge. The base side usually only needs to be filed once to get the right angle and then only rarely maintained with a diamond stone. If the base has worn down so much that it has been repaired or completely re-ground in a stone grinder, you may need to re-file the edge. Likewise, you may need to file if you have received a lot of damage from stones and other hard objects.

Use only a diamond stone for maintenance. A file wears down the edge when you work with it, a diamond stone causes very little wear on the actual edge. Remember that the steel edges are not replaceable; if you have filed down the entire edge, a new pair of skis is on the shopping list.

For maintenance, and to always have sharp steel edges during the season, it is usually sufficient to sharpen with a diamond stone on the steel edge side and remove the small burr that forms with an even finer stone from the base side.

 

This is how you manually sharpen your steel edges with a file and file holder in short strokes.

Step 1. Remove coarse damage from stones and the like from the steel edge with a coarse file. The file should be in a file holder or multi-tool, already here you must maintain the correct angle.

Step 2. If you are going to "hang the edge", meaning sharpen an angle on the base edge, it should be done now before you sharpen the side/steel edge.

    Step 3. Sharpen the steel edge with a fine file and file holder, or with a multi-tool. Don't forget water. If it's regular maintenance, you should instead use a diamond stone instead of a file.

    Step 4. Remove burr from the edge, via the base side, with a stone. Preferably a diamond stone or ceramic stone. Make a light pass along the entire edge.

    Step 5. Dull the steel edges 5-10cm at both the tip and end of the ski. This makes the skis more stable to ride. Dull the edge with a file, stone, rubber stone or fibertex.

     

    This is how you manually sharpen your steel edges with a file and file holder, detailed description.

    Step 1. Remove coarse damage from stones and the like from the steel edge with a coarse file. The file should be in a file holder or multi-tool, already here you must maintain the correct angle.

    Step 2. If you are going to "hang the edge", meaning sharpen an angle on the base edge, it should be done before you sharpen the steel edge. Read through all the points below before you start.

    • Mount the skis in a ski holder with the base facing up.
    • Use a file holder with the desired angle together with a 20 cm file, preferably a hard-chromed file.
      (Use a sharp good file, dull files sharpen unevenly and require more pressure which makes it harder to keep the tool at a perfect angle throughout the length of the ski. Regular files from the tool store are often too soft to sharpen steel edges (Rockwell 45-52) and do not work as well as files made for ski maintenance (Rockwell 65-68). Harder files cut better, require less pressure, and last longer.
    • Work on the edge furthest away from you.
    • Pull the file towards you (do not sharpen by pushing the file away from you) and work from the tip of the ski to the end of the ski.
    • Use short overlapping strokes. It is advisable to mark the edge with a black marker so you can easily see that you do not miss any part.
    • If you encounter damaged parts of your steel edge (it feels noticeable when you file), use a coarse file or a coarse (red) diamond stone to grind away the irregularities.
    • Be careful not to press down the filings into your base when you work. Use fiberlene to continuously wipe away the filings.
    • Do not file down into the base; you should only file the steel edge itself.
    • Then polish the filed surface with a diamond stone around 400 grit and work your way up with finer grit. The finer the polishing, the faster and sharper the edges.
    • The polishing with the stone can be done in both directions, finally finishing with a few light strokes from top to bottom.
    • For an absolute top finish, use a ceramic stone to hone the edge, which also makes the edge more durable.
      (Feel free to use a magnifying glass - when you find your own reflection, you are done)

    A general rule for the base edge - Do it and forget it! Do not overwork the base edge during the season. If you happen to grind it down too much, the only solution is to grind the entire base again with a stone grinder, which often must be done in a ski shop. Small scratches can be solved with a fine diamond stone, which almost does not remove any of the edge material. Avoid files.

    Step 3. Sharpen the steel edge with a file and file holder.

    • Mount the ski on its side in the ski holder and turn the base away from you.
    • You do not need to tighten the clamp so hard; the ski often holds well enough, and you do not need to risk making marks in the base.
    • You may need to scrape away material from the side of the ski to be able to grind at the correct angle. In that case, there are special tools that must be used for this. These tools leave a smooth, fine surface behind. Scraping in other ways can leave an uneven surface that slows the ski in turns when the edge comes in contact with the snow.
    • Sharpen the edge at the desired angle in the same way as described in the section about the base side above. Work by sharpening towards you. Start with a file the first time to reach the correct angle or if the edges are very damaged and worn. Then work your way up to a mirror-like finish with diamond stones and finally with a ceramic stone.
    • Please use a magnifying glass to really see that you have achieved the desired result. (If you want to get the absolute best result without effort - this is the best machine for sharpening steel edges)

    Step 4. When you are done with the edge, go back to lightly draw it with your finest file, very lightly, from the base side. This is to remove the so-called burr that forms during sharpening.

    Step 5. Finally, take a wad of fiberlene or a rubber stone and draw the edge very, very lightly! at a 45-degree angle to remove any remaining burr. Draw the entire length of the ski from top to end. Be careful not to press too much and contrary to the desired result make the edge dull again.

      Step 6. Dull the steel edges 5-10cm at both the top and end of the ski. This makes the skis more stable to ride on. Dull the edge with a file, sharpener or fibertex.


      It's that simple! Easy as pie with the right equipment! Watch out for cuts! Always use ski bands when transporting your sharp skis! Wax and go!