Vallaboden - ski care and bases
New skis need a clean and even starting point, but base prep does not have to mean an endless number of wax layers. Start by checking how the ski was delivered, work on the correct zone, and choose the level based on the structure and your ambitions.
Three levels of preparation
Not every new ski needs five or ten wax layers. A well-executed basic preparation goes a long way, while freshly ground cold-weather skis and race skis may justify more work.
For recreational skiers who want a clean, even and well-cared-for starting point for new skis without spending half a day in the wax room.
For those who wax regularly, want a stable foundation and are happy to spend a little extra time before using their skis.
For new race skis or skis that have just been stone-ground. Adapt the treatment to whether the structure is fine, medium or coarse.
Start with the right surface
The most common misconception is that the whole underside always needs glide wax. The area you work on depends on whether the ski is a waxable classic ski, a skin ski or a skate ski.
Classic
Prepare the glide zones in front of and behind the kick zone. Keep glide wax, cleaning and brushing away from the marked kick zone.
Classic
Prepare the glide zones in front of and behind the skin strip. Never apply hot glide wax over the skin, and protect the fibres and adhesive from the waxing iron.
Skating
On skate skis, the entire base is a glide surface. Preparation therefore runs from tip to tail, with scraping and brushing in the same direction.
The diagrams are schematic. The kick zone length must be fitted to the ski and skier.
Before you start
A new ski may arrive with protective paraffin, completely untreated, shop-prepared or freshly ground. These four starting points do not call for the same first step.
Is the ski ready to use, is there protective wax on the glide zones, or does the base need preparation from scratch?
If the shop has already prepared the ski, you normally do not need to start again. Check the surface, brush it and apply glide wax for the day's conditions when you are ready to ski.
Do not redo work that has already been done correctly.If there is a visible paraffin layer, scrape it off first and brush the structure clear. Do not apply new layers over it without knowing what the protective layer contains.
Clear the centre groove and edges before the glide zones.If the base is clean with no visible protective layer, brush lightly, check the surface and continue with a soft base preparation or saturation wax.
Use a liquid cleaner only when the surface actually needs it.After stone grinding, remove grinding dust and any microfibres. The amount of finishing work depends on whether the structure is fine, medium or coarse.
Ask the technician to describe the structure and recommended finishing treatment.What does saturation mean?
Saturating a new base means, in practice, creating a clean, even starting point with a wax that is easy to work in. Heat helps distribute the wax, the first soft-wax cycle can lift out dirt, and subsequent layers provide a stable foundation for the day's glide wax.
The result depends at least as much on the right iron temperature, steady movement, thorough cooling, a sharp scraper and careful brushing as on how many times you repeat the process.
Simple basic method
This method suits most new cross-country skis. Skip any steps already completed, and use hot scraping in step 6 only if you need to clean with soft wax. For freshly ground skis, see the detailed section on grind structure below.
Set the iron to the temperature stated on the wax. Cooling times can also vary, so always follow the instructions for the wax you are using.
Mark the glide zones before starting. Leave the kick zone completely clear on waxable classic skis. Protect the skin strip on skin skis; skate skis are prepared over the whole base.
A couple of pieces of masking tape can make the boundaries clear.Clear the centre groove and edges first. Then scrape the glide zones from tip to tail with a sharp acrylic scraper. Work with control and stop when the visible excess is gone.
A blunt scraper needs more pressure and gives less control.Brush lengthways with a clean bronze or fine steel brush. The aim is to clear the structure and remove loose residues, not to work the base aggressively.
Use Fibertex only when the surface condition or the technician's instructions call for it.If the surface is dusty or dirty, use glide wax cleaner and Fiberlene on the glide zones. Let the base dry completely and brush out the structure before continuing.
Standard remover for hardwax and klister does not belong on the glide zones.Drip or rub on an even layer. Move the waxing iron continuously from tip to tail, keeping it moving at all times. The wax should melt easily without smoking.
There must always be enough wax between the iron and the base.If the soft wax is being used for cleaning, scrape it while it is still warm or clearly lukewarm. Dirt and loose residues are then lifted out of the structure with it.
If the wax is visibly dirty, repeat the cleaning cycle if needed.If you hot scraped in step 6, apply a fresh, even layer of base wax now. Otherwise, let the layer from step 5 cool. Wait until the ski returns to room temperature, at least 10 to 15 minutes, and follow the wax's stated cooling time if it is longer.
Do not scrape a layer while lukewarm if it is intended to remain in the base.For skiing: clear the centre groove and edges, scrape the glide zones and brush the structure clear. Then apply glide wax for the day's conditions and finish that layer according to its instructions. For storage: leave the final base wax layer unscraped for protection.
Scrape and brush off the protective layer before using the ski.Freshly ground skis and race skis
Fine cold-weather structures often need more finishing to remove microfibres and smooth a sharp surface. Coarse warm-weather structures should be worked less so their water drainage channels remain well defined.
Cold and dry snow
Remaining microfibres are particularly noticeable here because cold, sharp snow creates high friction. A fine structure may therefore need more controlled finishing.
Broad range of use
The most common all-round starting point. The simple basic method works well here and can be supplemented with one or two more durable layers.
Damp and wet snow
The defined channels drain water and counter suction. Too many heating cycles, heavy scraping and aggressive use of Fibertex can reduce the structure's definition.
If you do not know the ski's grind, a clean surface, one soft base wax cycle and a correct finish are safer than aggressive Fibertex work or many hard-wax cycles. Next time the ski is ground, ask about the structure type and finishing advice.
Technique makes the difference
When base preparation goes wrong, heat, cooling, scraping or brushing is often the cause. Get these four elements right and the result becomes more consistent and easier to repeat.
Follow the wax label. The wax should melt immediately and evenly without smoking. Keep the iron moving from tip to tail at all times.
Never hold the waxing iron still on the base.A cleaning cycle can be scraped warm. A layer intended to remain in the base must cool to room temperature before scraping.
Allow at least 10 to 15 minutes and follow the product's cooling time.A sharp acrylic scraper removes excess wax with less pressure. A blunt scraper encourages heavier force and can reduce the structure's definition.
Sharpen the scraper often and use long, controlled strokes.Scraping removes the bulk of the excess. Brushing clears wax left in the structure's grooves and makes the base ready to ski.
After finishing, wax belongs in the base, not as a shiny film on top.Avoid these mistakes
Most mistakes can be avoided with clearly marked zones, moderate heat and clean tools. None of these issues requires more expensive wax to fix.
On waxable classic skis, glide wax can weaken grip wax adhesion. Mark the zones before starting work.
Wax should melt without smoke. Excess heat and stopping in one place increase the risk of overheating the base.
Hot scraping suits the cleaning cycle. A layer intended to provide a durable foundation must cool completely first.
This makes the work harder and can round off or flatten the structure. Sharpen the scraper instead of pressing harder.
Modern grinds are often well finished already. Use Fibertex lightly and only when microfibres or the supplier's advice justify it.
A shiny, clogged structure slows the ski down. Brush until the base pattern is clear and no loose wax dust remains.
From guide to waxing bench
Start with a suitable base wax and tools that give control over heat, scraping and brushing. Add items according to the ski's condition and your chosen method.
Soft wax for cleaning and initial layers, followed by a more durable foundation when the ski or structure calls for it.
A waxing iron, sharp scraper, separate brushes and clean Fiberlene make more difference than buying lots of almost identical waxes.
Swix
Waxing iron for even ironing-in of base wax and glide wax.
Vallaboden's advice: Set the temperature according to the wax and keep the iron moving in one continuous motion.
Swix
Plexi scraper for removing storage wax and excess glide wax.
Vallaboden's advice: Sharpen often. A sharp scraper requires less pressure and protects the structure better.
Swix
Scraper for cleaning the guide groove and edges before scraping the glide surfaces.
Vallaboden's advice: Do the guide groove first while a protective layer of wax is still on the glide surfaces.
Swix
Bronze brush for cleaning and the first brushing after scraping.
Vallaboden's advice: Work from tip to tail and keep the brush separate from the kick zone and skin.
Swix
Fine nylon brush for polishing the surface and removing the last wax dust.
Vallaboden's advice: Finish with light, even strokes until the base feels clean and the structure is clearly visible.
Swix
Fine Fibertex for very light surface treatment on new or newly stone-ground bases.
Vallaboden's advice: Use sparingly and only when the surface or the grinder’s recommendation justifies it.
Frequently asked questions
A new ski needs a good start, but rarely a complicated ritual. Here are answers to the most common questions about layers, zones, cooling and skin skis.
The glide surfaces normally benefit from an initial thorough preparation, but first check what the shop or factory has already done. If the ski is fully prepared, it is often enough just to brush and apply the day’s glide wax. If there is storage wax on the surface, it should be scraped and brushed off before the next step.
For most recreational skiers, one well-executed soft base cycle followed by the day’s glide wax is enough. If you want to work more thoroughly, you can apply one or two more stable layers after the soft cycle. Newly stone-ground cold skis may justify more cycles, while coarse warm structures often should be worked less.
No. On waxable classic skis, only the glide zones in front of and behind the kick zone are base-prepared. Glide wax in the kick zone can reduce the adhesion of kick wax and klister.
Base-prepare the glide surfaces in front of and behind the skin strip. Do not apply hot glide wax to the skin, and keep the waxing iron, plexi scraper, and abrasive materials away from the fibers and adhesive. The skin is cleaned and treated with dedicated skin products.
Not always. Modern factory and stone grinds can be very good right away. Brush lightly and assess the surface. Fibertex is used sparingly when microfibers are visible or when the grinder recommends it. Aggressive treatment can do more harm than good, especially on coarse warm structures.
A layer that is meant to remain in the base should cool to room temperature for at least 10 to 15 minutes. Longer time, for example overnight, is beneficial. The first soft cleaning pass is the exception and can be hot-scraped while the wax is still warm or clearly lukewarm.
A factory-new ski may be untreated, storage waxed, or fully prepped. A freshly ground ski has a new machine structure and may contain grinding dust or microfibers. The finishing treatment of a freshly ground ski should therefore be adapted depending on whether the structure is fine, medium-coarse, or coarse.
Liquid glide wax can quickly provide good glide on snow, but full base preparation with solid wax and a waxing iron normally creates a more thorough and durable starting point. A practical approach is to hot wax the ski properly at the start and then maintain it with liquid glide wax between hot wax treatments.
Once the foundation is ready
When the glide surfaces are clean, even, and properly brushed, the base preparation is complete. After that, you can choose the day’s glide wax according to temperature and snow type, just as on a ski that has already been used.
The most important thing is to create a workflow you can repeat. With clean tools, the right heat, and an open structure, you get more benefit from every subsequent waxing.
