Vallaboden - end-of-season care for cross-country skis

Store cross-country skis for the summer - how to protect the base between seasons

When the last outing is done, dirt, kick wax, and klister must be removed - but the glide zones should not be left bare. Here you get a clear method for classic skis, skin skis, and skate skis, with both traditional protective wax and an alternative without a waxing iron.

Cross-country skis - classic, skin, and skateAbout 12 minutes of readingUpdated August 2026

After the final outing

Four things to finish before your skis take a break

Clean as needed and leave a protective wax layer on the glide zones. We cover glide zones, the kick zone, skins and storage location so the whole ski is ready for its summer rest.

A completely dry ski

Remove moisture and spring snow first

Let the skis dry at room temperature after the last outing. Wipe the topsheet, edges, bindings and underside before cleaning or applying wax.

Never seal damp skis or skins inside a closed bag.
A clean glide surface

Clean as needed - not out of habit

Brush first. Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty, and hot scrape when dirt is deeper down or the preparation wax keeps coming off discoloured.

A sound, clean base does not need more aggressive treatment than necessary.
A clean central zone

Do not leave hardwax and klister on for summer

Scrape off most of the wax and use Base Cleaner in the conventional kick zone. Clean skins separately with a skin-specific product.

The kick zone should be clean and dry, but not covered with glide wax.
Decide how to address damage

Note what needs doing before next winter

Check scratches, bindings, loose parts and skin condition. Repair now or clearly note what needs workshop attention.

What you notice now is easy to forget when the first snow arrives.

The right protection in the right place

Three ski types - three ways to end the season

Protective wax belongs on the glide zones. Clean and dry the conventional kick zone and skin strip, but do not iron glide wax onto them.

Waxable classic skis

Remove hardwax and klister completely. Clean the kick zone, let it dry, then apply protective wax only to the glide zones in front and behind.

Storage waxClean kick zone

Skin skis

Protect the glide zones in front of and behind the skin strip. Clean the skin with Skin Cleaner, let it dry completely and keep the waxing iron, Base Cleaner and glide wax away from the fibres.

Storage waxClean, dry skin

Skating skis

The whole base is a glide surface. Clean as needed and cover the entire underside with an even protective layer from tip to tail.

Protective wax over the entire base

The diagrams are schematic. The kick zone length must be fitted to the ski and skier.

Inspect before cleaning

Six decisions that determine how much work is needed

Support the ski securely in good light and choose the gentlest method that leaves it clean, dry and well protected.

01

Is the ski completely dry?

Moisture under wax or in a skin must dry out before the ski is treated or packed away.

02

Is the glide surface only dusty?

Brushing and wiping may be enough. Liquid cleaning is only needed when dirt or residues remain.

03

Is there hardwax or klister left?

Strip the conventional kick zone with mechanical scraping, Fiberlene and Base Cleaner.

04

Has the skin collected dirt?

Clean with Skin Cleaner and check the fibres, adhesive edges and any hardened lumps.

05

Are there scratches or dry patches?

Small marks can be left, but make a clear decision about workshop repair for deep damage or ruined structure.

06

Are the topsheet and binding clean?

Wipe away salt, dirt and wax residues. Check for loose parts before storing the skis.

Summer storage step by step

From the last outing to summer protection in nine steps

Work steadily and keep glide, grip and skins separate. Skip deeper cleaning when the ski is already clean.

01

DryLet the entire ski and skin dry completely.

02

CleanRemove hardwax, klister and dirt from the correct zone.

03

ProtectLeave solid protective wax or BPL on the glide zones.

04

StoreKeep dry, dark and free from unnecessary load.

  1. Let the skis dry at room temperature

    Wipe away snow, water and visible dirt after the last outing. Leave the skis uncovered until the underside, bindings and any skins are completely dry.

    Do not start cleaning a cold ski while condensation is still forming.
  2. Clean the topsheet, sides and bindings

    Wipe dirt and wax residues from parts that rarely get attention during the season. Check screws, play and visible damage without changing binding settings at random.

    Note anything that needs workshop attention or action before the first outing.
  3. Mark glide, grip and skin zones

    Check the kick zone boundaries and use separate cloths, brushes and scrapers. Keep the central zone free of glide wax on classic skis and skin skis.

    Consider labelling tools and bags GLIDE, GRIP and SKIN.
  4. Remove hardwax and klister

    Scrape off most of it mechanically. Lay Fiberlene over the kick zone, dampen with Base Cleaner and lift off the residues. Repeat with a clean cloth until the surface is no longer sticky.

    Let the kick zone dry completely before moving the skis or putting them together.
  5. Clean skins separately

    Apply Skin Cleaner to Fiberlene and wipe along the skin. Switch to a clean part of the cloth as it gets dirty, and let the skin dry uncovered at room temperature.

    Standard wax remover, waxing irons and abrasive materials do not belong on the skin.
  6. Clean the glide zones to the level needed

    Brush first. Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty. For deeper dirt, iron in a soft preparation wax and scrape it off while still warm. Repeat only until the wax comes off clean.

    Do not use Base Cleaner for hardwax and klister as a general cleaner on the glide zones.
  7. Assess scratches and dry patches

    Remove loose fragments and decide whether to leave damage, repair it or take it to a workshop. Major repairs or stone grinding are best done before applying the protective layer.

    Write down the decision. A postponed problem should not become a surprise in November.
  8. Protect the glide zones

    Choose either solid glide wax to iron in or a product explicitly intended as liquid storage protection. Cover the entire glide zone evenly and follow the product's temperature and application method.

    Keep the central zone free of glide wax on classic skis and skin skis.
  9. Leave the protective layer on and store the skis

    Do not scrape or brush off solid protective wax. Let BPL dry and leave it on too. Label the ski pair and store it somewhere dry, dark and protected from dust, intense heat and moisture.

    When winter returns, scrape and brush off the protection before applying wax for the day's conditions.

Two good ways to protect the glide zones

Hot-applied protective wax or BPL without an iron

Both methods leave a protective layer over the base. Choose the one you can carry out cleanly and with control.

Traditional method

Solid glide wax left unscraped

Iron an even layer of solid wax over the entire glide zone. Keep the iron moving and follow the product's temperature guidance. Once the wax covers the base, let the ski cool and store it without scraping or brushing.

  • Provides a clear, robust barrier against dust and drying out.
  • PS6 or a suitable base prep wax can be used according to the product's guidance.
  • Scrape and brush only when you take the skis out next season.
Without a waxing iron

Base Protection Liquid left to dry on the base

BPL is designed for storage and transport. Apply a thin, even layer to the glide zones, let it dry and leave the protection in place until the ski is used again.

  • Convenient when you do not have an iron or a full waxing setup.
  • Use a product explicitly intended for storage protection.
  • Remove the layer with a scraper and brushes as directed by the product.
A clean glide surface

Skip hot scraping

If the base is clean after brushing or mild glide cleaning, go straight to the protective layer. More treatment does not automatically improve storage.

Deep-seated dirt

Hot scrape with soft preparation wax

Iron in a soft wax and scrape while it is still warm. Repeat until the excess wax no longer carries visible dirt away.

Dry or damaged base

Clean, assess and repair first

A protective layer does not fix deep scratches or ruined structure. Complete any necessary repair or workshop work before summer storage.

The storage location

Dry and stable beats coldest or warmest

Wax protects the base, but the rest of the ski also benefits from a clean place without moisture, direct sun or large temperature swings.

A good choice

Dry storeroom or indoor storage

Store the skis somewhere clean and dark with a reasonably stable temperature.

  • Protection from dust and direct sunlight.
  • No moisture collecting around bindings or skins.
  • The skis lie or stand securely without bending.
  • Soft ski straps hold the pair together without heavy compression.
A dry storage location matters more than an exact temperature.
Suitable with checks

Garage, basement or unheated shed

Common locations that often contain more dust and sometimes more moisture.

  • Always apply a proper protective layer to the glide zones.
  • Do not place skis directly on a damp floor.
  • Check that bags and skins are completely dry.
  • Avoid the location if condensation or large temperature swings occur.
A quick midsummer check is sensible if the space feels damp.
Avoid

Heat, sun and trapped moisture

Intense heat and a wet, sealed bag are a poor combination.

  • Direct sun through windows.
  • Next to a radiator, boiler or other strong heat source.
  • A wet car, roof box or closed bag after the final outing.
  • Storage where other items load or bend the skis.
Dry and move the skis before they are forgotten for the season.

Before you close the door

Six boxes to tick

A quick final check means next season starts with a ski in a known condition rather than an old mystery.

Products for summer storage

Clean now, protect over summer and make autumn easier

Choose cleaners to suit the ski's surfaces and condition. Add protective wax and the tools you need to store clean, dry and well-protected skis.

Protective wax, tools and skin care

View base and protective waxes
Without a waxing ironIn stock
Swix BPL liquid protective paraffin

Swix

Swix BPL liquid protective paraffin

Liquid protective paraffin developed for storage and transport.

Vallaboden's advice: Apply evenly to the glide surfaces, let dry, and leave the layer on until next season.

Protection and transportIn stock
Swix BP88 Base Prep medium-hard base wax 180 g (0 to -10 °C)

Swix

Swix BP88 Base Prep medium-hard base wax 180 g (0 to -10 °C)

Medium-hard base prep that can be ironed in as an even protective layer on the glide surfaces.

Vallaboden's advice: Leave the wax unscraped during storage and follow the product's iron temperature.

Controlled heatIn stock
Swix T77 Waxing Iron

Swix

Swix T77 Waxing Iron

Waxing iron for distributing hard protective wax evenly over the glide surfaces.

Vallaboden's advice: Follow the wax temperature and never let the iron stand still on the base.

For autumnIn stock
Skidvalla.se Plexi Scraper 4 mm

Skidvalla.se

Skidvalla.se Plexi Scraper 4 mm

Plexi scraper for removing the protective layer when the skis are brought out for the next season.

Vallaboden's advice: Keep the scraper sharp. During the summer, the hard protective layer should remain in place.

Final finishIn stock
Swix Rectangular Fine Nylon Brush Blue

Swix

Swix Rectangular Fine Nylon Brush Blue

Fine nylon brush for polishing once the protective wax has been scraped off before winter.

Vallaboden's advice: Store the brush clean and separate from grip wax, klister, and skin products.

Optional skin careIn stock
Swix Skin Impregnation N20

Swix

Swix Skin Impregnation N20

Impregnation treatment for skins that can be used after cleaning according to the product instructions.

Vallaboden's advice: Make sure the skin is completely clean and dry first. Impregnation does not replace cleaning.

Frequently asked questions

What skiers most often ask at the end of the season

The key distinction is simple: remove grip wax and dirt, but leave the glide zones covered with a protective layer.

Does all old wax need to be removed before summer storage?

Grip wax and klister must be removed from the kick zone. The glide surfaces should be cleaned as much as their condition requires and then covered with a new protective layer. The goal is therefore not a bare ski, but clean zones and protected glide surfaces.

Do I need to hot scrape the glide surfaces every spring?

No. Hot scraping is good when the base is clearly dirty or when normal glide wax cleaning is not enough. If the surface is clean after brushing and mild cleaning, you can go straight to the protective wax.

Which wax should be used as protection over the summer?

A solid glide wax or base prep left unscraped is the traditional choice. Another option is a liquid product explicitly developed as storage protection, for example Base Protection Liquid. Always follow the instructions for the specific product.

Should the protective wax be scraped and brushed before the skis are put away?

No. Solid protective wax should remain unscraped and unbrushed on the glide zones. Let BPL dry and leave it on too. Remove the layer when preparing the skis for the next winter.

Can I use any liquid glide wax as summer wax?

Not as a general rule. Use a product whose instructions explicitly state storage or base protection. Regular quick wax is primarily developed for skiing and may not provide the same long-lasting protection.

How do I store skin skis over the summer?

Clean the glide surfaces and apply protective wax in front of and behind the skin strip. Clean the skin itself with Skin Cleaner, let it dry completely, and keep it away from the waxing iron, Base Cleaner, and glide wax. Skin impregnation can be used according to the product instructions.

Where is the best place to store cross-country skis over the summer?

Choose a dry, clean, and dark place with a reasonably stable temperature. Avoid direct sunlight, strong heat, standing moisture, and a tight ski bag when the skis are still wet. Garages and basements can work when they are dry and the skis are protected from dust.

Should the skis be strapped tightly together during storage?

No. Soft ski ties can keep the pair together, but the purpose is not to compress the camber. Do not tighten more than necessary, and make sure the skis stand or lie without being bent by other equipment.

What should I do when the skis are brought out next winter?

Let the skis come to room temperature. Clear the groove, scrape off the protective wax, and brush out the structure. Check the kick zone or skin, then apply glide wax and grip wax for the current snow conditions.

The road to the top starts in the basement

Half an hour in spring saves a whole evening when the snow arrives

The most important thing is not to do the most steps, but to put away a dry, clean, and documented ski with the glide zones properly protected.

When next winter comes, you should be able to scrape and brush off the protective layer, check the kick zone or skin, and move on with the day's wax - without first dealing with last spring's klister.