Remove moisture and spring snow first
Let the skis dry at room temperature after the last outing. Wipe the topsheet, edges, bindings and underside before cleaning or applying wax.
Never seal damp skis or skins inside a closed bag.Vallaboden - end-of-season care for cross-country skis
When the last outing is done, dirt, kick wax, and klister must be removed - but the glide zones should not be left bare. Here you get a clear method for classic skis, skin skis, and skate skis, with both traditional protective wax and an alternative without a waxing iron.
After the final outing
Clean as needed and leave a protective wax layer on the glide zones. We cover glide zones, the kick zone, skins and storage location so the whole ski is ready for its summer rest.
Let the skis dry at room temperature after the last outing. Wipe the topsheet, edges, bindings and underside before cleaning or applying wax.
Never seal damp skis or skins inside a closed bag.Brush first. Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty, and hot scrape when dirt is deeper down or the preparation wax keeps coming off discoloured.
A sound, clean base does not need more aggressive treatment than necessary.Scrape off most of the wax and use Base Cleaner in the conventional kick zone. Clean skins separately with a skin-specific product.
The kick zone should be clean and dry, but not covered with glide wax.Check scratches, bindings, loose parts and skin condition. Repair now or clearly note what needs workshop attention.
What you notice now is easy to forget when the first snow arrives.The right protection in the right place
Protective wax belongs on the glide zones. Clean and dry the conventional kick zone and skin strip, but do not iron glide wax onto them.
Remove hardwax and klister completely. Clean the kick zone, let it dry, then apply protective wax only to the glide zones in front and behind.
Protect the glide zones in front of and behind the skin strip. Clean the skin with Skin Cleaner, let it dry completely and keep the waxing iron, Base Cleaner and glide wax away from the fibres.
The whole base is a glide surface. Clean as needed and cover the entire underside with an even protective layer from tip to tail.
The diagrams are schematic. The kick zone length must be fitted to the ski and skier.
Inspect before cleaning
Support the ski securely in good light and choose the gentlest method that leaves it clean, dry and well protected.
Moisture under wax or in a skin must dry out before the ski is treated or packed away.
Brushing and wiping may be enough. Liquid cleaning is only needed when dirt or residues remain.
Strip the conventional kick zone with mechanical scraping, Fiberlene and Base Cleaner.
Clean with Skin Cleaner and check the fibres, adhesive edges and any hardened lumps.
Small marks can be left, but make a clear decision about workshop repair for deep damage or ruined structure.
Wipe away salt, dirt and wax residues. Check for loose parts before storing the skis.
Summer storage step by step
Work steadily and keep glide, grip and skins separate. Skip deeper cleaning when the ski is already clean.
DryLet the entire ski and skin dry completely.
CleanRemove hardwax, klister and dirt from the correct zone.
ProtectLeave solid protective wax or BPL on the glide zones.
StoreKeep dry, dark and free from unnecessary load.
Wipe away snow, water and visible dirt after the last outing. Leave the skis uncovered until the underside, bindings and any skins are completely dry.
Wipe dirt and wax residues from parts that rarely get attention during the season. Check screws, play and visible damage without changing binding settings at random.
Check the kick zone boundaries and use separate cloths, brushes and scrapers. Keep the central zone free of glide wax on classic skis and skin skis.
Scrape off most of it mechanically. Lay Fiberlene over the kick zone, dampen with Base Cleaner and lift off the residues. Repeat with a clean cloth until the surface is no longer sticky.
Apply Skin Cleaner to Fiberlene and wipe along the skin. Switch to a clean part of the cloth as it gets dirty, and let the skin dry uncovered at room temperature.
Brush first. Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty. For deeper dirt, iron in a soft preparation wax and scrape it off while still warm. Repeat only until the wax comes off clean.
Remove loose fragments and decide whether to leave damage, repair it or take it to a workshop. Major repairs or stone grinding are best done before applying the protective layer.
Choose either solid glide wax to iron in or a product explicitly intended as liquid storage protection. Cover the entire glide zone evenly and follow the product's temperature and application method.
Do not scrape or brush off solid protective wax. Let BPL dry and leave it on too. Label the ski pair and store it somewhere dry, dark and protected from dust, intense heat and moisture.
Two good ways to protect the glide zones
Both methods leave a protective layer over the base. Choose the one you can carry out cleanly and with control.
Iron an even layer of solid wax over the entire glide zone. Keep the iron moving and follow the product's temperature guidance. Once the wax covers the base, let the ski cool and store it without scraping or brushing.
BPL is designed for storage and transport. Apply a thin, even layer to the glide zones, let it dry and leave the protection in place until the ski is used again.
If the base is clean after brushing or mild glide cleaning, go straight to the protective layer. More treatment does not automatically improve storage.
Iron in a soft wax and scrape while it is still warm. Repeat until the excess wax no longer carries visible dirt away.
A protective layer does not fix deep scratches or ruined structure. Complete any necessary repair or workshop work before summer storage.
The storage location
Wax protects the base, but the rest of the ski also benefits from a clean place without moisture, direct sun or large temperature swings.
Store the skis somewhere clean and dark with a reasonably stable temperature.
Common locations that often contain more dust and sometimes more moisture.
Intense heat and a wet, sealed bag are a poor combination.
Before you close the door
A quick final check means next season starts with a ski in a known condition rather than an old mystery.
Products for summer storage
Choose cleaners to suit the ski's surfaces and condition. Add protective wax and the tools you need to store clean, dry and well-protected skis.
Swix
Dissolves residue of hardwax and klister in the normal kick zone.
Vallaboden's advice: Scrape off the main bulk mechanically first and keep the product away from glide zones and skin.
Swix
Gentle cleaning of integrated skins before long-term storage.
Vallaboden's advice: Apply to Fiberlene and let the skin dry exposed at room temperature.
Swix
Lint-free cloth for glide zones, kick zone, and skin, using a fresh piece for each work area.
Vallaboden's advice: Do not mix a klister cloth with tools or surfaces for glide wax and skin.
Swix
Scraper for removing the main bulk of hardwax and klister before using wax remover.
Vallaboden's advice: Work in the kick zone and wipe off the scraper before putting it away.
Swix
Brush for opening the structure and assessing how much dirt is actually left.
Vallaboden's advice: Use a clean glide brush and work from tip to tail.
Swix
Liquid protective paraffin developed for storage and transport.
Vallaboden's advice: Apply evenly to the glide surfaces, let dry, and leave the layer on until next season.
Swix
Medium-hard base prep that can be ironed in as an even protective layer on the glide surfaces.
Vallaboden's advice: Leave the wax unscraped during storage and follow the product's iron temperature.
Swix
Waxing iron for distributing hard protective wax evenly over the glide surfaces.
Vallaboden's advice: Follow the wax temperature and never let the iron stand still on the base.
Skidvalla.se
Plexi scraper for removing the protective layer when the skis are brought out for the next season.
Vallaboden's advice: Keep the scraper sharp. During the summer, the hard protective layer should remain in place.
Swix
Fine nylon brush for polishing once the protective wax has been scraped off before winter.
Vallaboden's advice: Store the brush clean and separate from grip wax, klister, and skin products.
Swix
Impregnation treatment for skins that can be used after cleaning according to the product instructions.
Vallaboden's advice: Make sure the skin is completely clean and dry first. Impregnation does not replace cleaning.
Frequently asked questions
The key distinction is simple: remove grip wax and dirt, but leave the glide zones covered with a protective layer.
Grip wax and klister must be removed from the kick zone. The glide surfaces should be cleaned as much as their condition requires and then covered with a new protective layer. The goal is therefore not a bare ski, but clean zones and protected glide surfaces.
No. Hot scraping is good when the base is clearly dirty or when normal glide wax cleaning is not enough. If the surface is clean after brushing and mild cleaning, you can go straight to the protective wax.
A solid glide wax or base prep left unscraped is the traditional choice. Another option is a liquid product explicitly developed as storage protection, for example Base Protection Liquid. Always follow the instructions for the specific product.
No. Solid protective wax should remain unscraped and unbrushed on the glide zones. Let BPL dry and leave it on too. Remove the layer when preparing the skis for the next winter.
Not as a general rule. Use a product whose instructions explicitly state storage or base protection. Regular quick wax is primarily developed for skiing and may not provide the same long-lasting protection.
Clean the glide surfaces and apply protective wax in front of and behind the skin strip. Clean the skin itself with Skin Cleaner, let it dry completely, and keep it away from the waxing iron, Base Cleaner, and glide wax. Skin impregnation can be used according to the product instructions.
Choose a dry, clean, and dark place with a reasonably stable temperature. Avoid direct sunlight, strong heat, standing moisture, and a tight ski bag when the skis are still wet. Garages and basements can work when they are dry and the skis are protected from dust.
No. Soft ski ties can keep the pair together, but the purpose is not to compress the camber. Do not tighten more than necessary, and make sure the skis stand or lie without being bent by other equipment.
Let the skis come to room temperature. Clear the groove, scrape off the protective wax, and brush out the structure. Check the kick zone or skin, then apply glide wax and grip wax for the current snow conditions.
The road to the top starts in the basement
The most important thing is not to do the most steps, but to put away a dry, clean, and documented ski with the glide zones properly protected.
When next winter comes, you should be able to scrape and brush off the protective layer, check the kick zone or skin, and move on with the day's wax - without first dealing with last spring's klister.