Clean storage wax is still in place
Clear the centre groove, scrape the glide zones and brush out the structure. Then inspect the base before applying the day's wax.
You normally do not need to dissolve a clean protective layer with cleaner.Vallaboden - preparing cross-country skis for winter
Preparing cross-country skis for winter - from storage to the first outing
Take out your skis well before the first snowfall. Here you will learn how to determine whether the storage wax just needs to be scraped off, whether the glide zones need cleaning, and when scratches, micro-hairs or dry areas require more work.
Start from the right baseline
Four skis may need four completely different starts to the season
The most common mistake is following the same lengthy procedure whether the ski has clean storage wax, is unwaxed but in good condition, or is covered in dirt and old klister.
The base is unwaxed but looks clean
Brush off dust and check that the structure is clear. Use liquid cleaner only when the surface is actually dirty or old wax remains.
Finish with solid glide wax for a durable first layer.Old hard grip wax or klister remains
Remove most of it mechanically and use Base Cleaner in the kick zone. Keep the tools, cloths and cleaner away from the glide zones.
Finish the glide zones before roughening the conventional kick zone.The base is white, scratched or uneven
Clean gently and assess the damage in good light. Superficial scratches can be left alone, while deep grooves, core damage or a ruined structure belong in a workshop.
Do not try to sand away a problem that really needs repair or stone grinding.The right method on the right area
Three ski types - three ways to divide the underside
Before starting, know where glide wax belongs and which central zone must be kept free of heat, solvents or abrasive tools.
Waxable classic skis
The glide zones are in front of and behind the conventional kick zone. Old hard grip wax and klister are removed separately.
GlideGripGlide
GlideKick zone
Skin skis
Prepare the glide zones in front of and behind the skin strip. Clean the skin itself with Skin Cleaner; do not heat or sand it.
GlideSkinGlide
GlideSkin
Skating skis
The entire base is a glide surface. Work continuously from tip to tail, paying extra attention to the pressure zones.
Glide
Glide along the whole base
The diagrams are schematic. The kick zone length must be fitted to the ski and skier.
Inspect in good light
Six things to check before the iron gets hot
A quick check saves both time and base material. Support the ski securely, wipe the topsheet and inspect along the base from several angles.
The protective layer
Is the wax clean, even and free of dust, or has dirt been pressed into the surface during storage?
The structure
Is the grind pattern visible once the wax is removed, or do paraffin and dirt still fill the grooves?
Dry patches
Dull or white areas near the pressure zones may need cleaning, waxing or assessment by a workshop.
Scratches and impact damage
Do not scrape at random. Assess whether a scratch is superficial, repairable with base material or deep enough to justify workshop attention.
Kick zone or skin
Check for residues, dirt, lifting adhesive and whether the skin fibres lie evenly without hard clumps.
The tools
Sharpen the plexi scraper, clean the brushes and check the waxing iron's plate before transferring dirt to the ski.
Season preparation step by step
From storage to ready-to-ski in eight controlled steps
Skip steps that are unnecessary. A ski with clean storage wax needs far less work than one put away dirty and unprotected.
01
InspectStorage wax, dirt, scratches and dry patches.
02
Clean the right zoneGlide surfaces, kick zones and skins need different methods.
03
Build the glideScrape, brush and apply a carefully chosen first wax.
04
Take notesRecord what you did and how the first outing felt.
-
Let skis and products reach room temperature
Wipe dust off the topsheet and sides. A cold ski can collect condensation, and moisture makes it harder to assess the surface and achieve even cleaning or waxing.
Do not start ironing as soon as the skis come out of cold storage. -
Mark the glide zones, kick zone or skin
Check old markings and remark the zones if necessary. On classic and skin skis, protect the central zone from glide wax, sanding and unsuitable cleaners.
A piece of masking tape at the zone boundary makes the workflow clear. -
Remove the storage wax
Clear the centre groove first. Then scrape the glide zones with a sharp plexi scraper and brush from tip to tail until the structure is open. Inspect before deciding whether liquid cleaning is needed.
A clean protective layer should primarily be scraped and brushed off, not dissolved out of habit. -
Clean the glide zones only when needed
Use glide wax cleaner on the glide zones, working with clean Fiberlene and a suitable brush while the surface is wet. Wipe off and let the base dry completely before further preparation.
Base Cleaner for hard grip wax and klister should not replace glide wax cleaner. -
Reset the kick zone or clean the skin
Scrape off most of the hard grip wax or klister and dissolve the residue with Base Cleaner. For skin skis, apply Skin Cleaner to Fiberlene and wipe the skin in the direction of the fibres.
Use separate cloths and tools labelled GLIDE, GRIP and SKIN. -
Assess microhairs and damage
Fine Fibertex can be used carefully if a new or freshly ground base has obvious microhairs. Small scratches do not always need filling. Deep damage near the core, edge or binding area is best left to a workshop.
Do not automatically use coarse, fine and extra-fine Fibertex on every older ski. -
Apply a durable first glide layer
Iron in a suitable solid glide wax, keeping the iron moving. Let the ski cool to room temperature, then scrape and brush. A softer wax can be used for cleaning or saturation, followed by a harder layer for durability.
Follow the wax's specified iron temperature and keep enough wax between the iron and the base. -
Finish for the conditions on your first outing
Check that the structure is clear and no visible film remains on the base. Apply the day's glide wax, prepare the kick zone or treat the skin, then give everything a final wipe.
Record your workflow before the first outing and add your observations straight afterwards.
Fibertex and base damage
Do as little as possible - but as much as necessary
Choose Fibertex according to the grind pattern, base condition and intended use. You do not need to use every grade in sequence, and an even, well-maintained base does not need abrasive treatment.
Fine work on microhairs and an uneven surface
Fine or extra-fine Fibertex can be useful after stone grinding, on some new skis or when obvious microhairs protrude from the base.
- Use light pressure and check frequently.
- Match the material to the base grind and the manufacturer's advice.
- Brush clean and assess the result before making more passes.
Coarse material is not a general autumn cleaning tool
Do not use Fibertex to sand out deep scratches, alter a sound structure or treat skins. Overworking fine cold-snow structures can round off details that are needed on snow.
- Do not use every grade simply because it is available.
- Do not try to level out core or edge damage by hand.
- Let a workshop assess skis with a damaged structure or an uneven base.
Superficial cosmetic scratches
Small marks that are barely perceptible and do not collect wax or dirt often need no repair. Clean, wax and monitor how the ski performs.
A clean, isolated scratch
Base repair material can be used on clean damage if you know the method. Let it cool completely before removing excess material and finishing the surface.
Deep damage, core damage or a ruined grind
Damage near the steel edge, binding or core, and major unevenness, should be professionally assessed. A new stone grind may be needed after repair.
Choose your level of preparation
A good start to the season can take twenty minutes or a whole evening
The time spent should reflect the ski's condition and your aims. Do not perform a race-preparation routine on a well-kept recreational ski just because autumn has arrived.
Clean storage wax and a sound ski
For skis stored correctly and still in good condition.
- Scrape off the protective layer.
- Brush out the structure.
- Check the kick zone or skin.
- Apply wax for the first outing.
A thorough home service
For unwaxed, dirty or neglected skis that need a fresh start.
- Clean the zones separately.
- Check scratches and dry patches.
- Use softer working wax if needed.
- Finish with a harder layer and thorough brushing.
Grinding, flatness or major repair
For skis where normal waxing cannot restore an even, well-defined glide surface.
- Deep or extensive base damage.
- A damaged or unsuitable base structure.
- An uneven base or damaged edges.
- Race skis needing a new grind profile.
Before the first ski session
Six boxes to tick
Make the final check before loading the skis into the car. Then the first snow means a ski outing rather than an emergency evening in the waxing room.
Products for the start of the season
Clean correctly, repair carefully and finish with clear glide surfaces
Choose cleaners to suit the ski's surfaces and condition. Add a sharp scraper, clean brushes and suitable glide wax to prepare the skis for the first outing.
Cleaning, inspection and minor repairs
View all cleaning productsGlide zones onlyIn stock
Swix
Swix Glide Wax Cleaner
Clean dirt and residue from the glide zone structure before new waxing.
Vallaboden's advice: Use when the base is actually dirty. Do not confuse with Base Cleaner for grip wax and klister.
Kick zoneIn stock
Swix
Swix Base Cleaner Wax Remover
Dissolves residue from hard grip wax and klister in the regular kick zone.
Vallaboden's advice: Scrape off the main bulk mechanically first and keep the cleaner away from the glide zones.
For skin skisIn stock
Swix
Swix Skin Cleaner N22
Gentle cleaning of integrated skins without regular wax remover.
Vallaboden's advice: Apply to Fiberlene and wipe in the skin's lengthwise direction. Let dry at room temperature.
Fine finishingIn stock
Swix
Swix Fibertex Fine
Extra-fine Fibertex for micro-hairs and finishing on new or newly ground bases.
Vallaboden's advice: Use carefully and only when the surface needs it. It is not a mandatory treatment on every old ski.
Minor repairIn stock
Swix
Swix Base Material Black
Black base material for clean and well-defined damage in black bases.
Vallaboden's advice: Follow the product instructions, ventilate well, and preferably practice on an older ski before repairing an important pair of skis.
Waxing, scraping and brushing
View base and universal waxesWaxing ironIn stock
Swix
Swix T77 Waxing Iron
A simple iron for solid glide wax and regular home waxing.
Vallaboden's advice: Clean the plate before starting and give the hot iron a safe place between passes.
Sharp scraperIn stock
Swix
Swix Plexi Scraper 3 mm
Plexi scraper for removing storage wax and excess new glide wax.
Vallaboden's advice: A sharp scraper requires less pressure and preserves the structure better than a dull one.
Clean the groove firstIn stock
Start
Start Groove Scraper
Groove scraper for clearing the groove before scraping the glide surfaces.
Vallaboden's advice: Clear the groove while the glide surfaces still have a protective wax layer.
Opens the structureIn stock
Swix
Swix Rectangular Medium Bronze Brush
Medium bronze brush for the first brushing after scraping.
Vallaboden's advice: Work from tip to tail and stop when the structure is clean, not after an arbitrary number of hard strokes.
Final finishIn stock
Swix
Swix Rectangular Fine Nylon Brush Blue
Fine nylon brush for polishing after the coarser brushing.
Vallaboden's advice: Use a clean brush that has not been used with klister, grip wax, or skin products.
Frequently asked questions
What skiers most often ask before the first snow
Start with the ski's condition, not a fixed ritual. A well-maintained ski rarely needs the same treatment as one stored dirty and unprotected.
Must the storage wax always be removed before the first outing?
Yes. The storage wax should be cleared out of the groove, scraped from the glide surfaces, and brushed out of the structure. After that, apply glide wax for the current snow conditions. A clean protective layer normally does not need to be dissolved with cleaner.
Do I need to wet-clean the glide surfaces every autumn?
No. If the skis have been stored with clean storage wax and the base looks healthy, it is often enough to scrape and brush. Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty, contaminated, or has old residue that does not come off with normal brushing.
Can Base Cleaner be used on the whole ski?
No. Base Cleaner is intended for kick wax and klister in the kick zone. The glide surfaces are cleaned with glide wax cleaner or a suitable cleaning wax. Skins are cleaned with a product explicitly intended for skins.
Should I use coarse, fine, and extra-fine Fibertex in sequence?
Not as a general rule. Fine Fibertex can be useful on new or freshly ground bases with micro-hairs, but the need depends on the grind and condition. Coarse material can alter a healthy structure. Start cautiously and follow the advice for the specific base.
What should I do if the base is white or grey?
Clean and wax the glide surface methodically, and check the pressure zones in particular. If the surface is still dull, uneven, or clearly damaged after a few controlled treatments, the ski may need stone grinding or professional assessment.
What should I do with skin skis that have been sitting all summer?
Scrape and brush the glide surfaces in front of and behind the skin insert. Clean the skin itself with Skin Cleaner on Fiberlene and let it dry at room temperature. Do not use a waxing iron, sandpaper, Fibertex, or regular wax remover on the skin.
Which scratches can I repair myself?
A clean and defined scratch in the base can be repaired with the right base material when you have mastered the method. Superficial marks can often be left alone. Deep damage down to the core, steel edge, or binding area should be left to a workshop.
Is liquid glide wax enough as the first wax?
It can provide a quick and easy start on a healthy ski, but solid glide wax normally gives a more durable base and a better treatment of the ski base. On skis that have been stored bare, dry, or neglected, hot waxing is the safer choice.
How early should I prepare the skis for winter?
Preferably several weeks before the first planned outing. That gives you time to discover scratches, buy consumables, or leave the skis in for grinding. The final wax for the day's conditions can be applied when the forecast and snow type are known.
The road to the top starts in the basement
Meet the first snow with skis that are ready - not panic in the waxing room
Take out the skis while there is still time to clean them properly, repair damage or hand in a pair for stone grinding. Then the first waxing can be built on a known and well-prepared base.
Only do the steps the ski actually needs. Clean storage wax, a sharp scraper and thorough brushing are often a better start than an unnecessarily aggressive full overhaul.