New and fine-grained snow
Hardwax is normally the first choice in cold, dry, fine natural snow where the crystals are still relatively sharp.
Vallaboden - grip wax
Grip waxing with hardwax - how to get reliable grip
Learn how to clean and roughen the kick zone, apply a durable base layer, and build up several thin layers of hardwax. This guide helps you get good grip without unnecessarily slowing the glide.
When should you use hardwax?
Hardwax, also called stick wax, is used primarily on waxable classic cross-country skis when the snow is new or fine-grained. The right hardwax grips the snow crystals during the kick but releases as the ski glides forward.
For waxable classic cross-country skis. Do not apply hard grip wax to skins, fishscales or skate skis. Unsure which type of ski you have? Read the beginner's guide to cross-country skis.
Typical winter conditions
In stable sub-zero temperatures, hardwax is usually easy to apply, simple to fine-tune, and considerably less messy than klister.
Near zero in fine snow
Softer hardwax can work very well around 0 °C when the snow is falling or fine-grained. When the snow becomes coarse, wet, or icy, klister is often better.
Grip wax should only be applied in the grip zone
The grip zone is in the middle of the ski, approximately under the binding. In front of and behind it are the glide zones. The exact length depends on the ski’s camber, your weight, and how the ski has been fitted to you.
Schematic diagram, not to scale. The grip zone is measured for your particular skis.
Ideally, have a ski shop mark out the grip zone when the skis are fitted. The paper test on a flat floor can provide a rough check, but it does not replace a proper camber measurement.
- A grip zone that is too short or waxed too hard can cause kick slip.
- A zone that is too long, too thick, or too soft can slow the glide.
- It is a good idea to mark the front and rear edges of the zone with a small marker line on the side of the ski.
- Keep wax remover, grip wax, and grinding dust away from the glide zones.
What you need
You can get a long way with just a few simple tools. It is a good idea to keep the tools for grip wax separate from those you use on the glide zones.
Remove old wax
Grip wax scraper
A separate scraper and a groove scraper make cleaning easier. See our range of scrapers.
Clean the grip zone
Wax remover and cloth
Use cleaner intended for grip wax together with Fiberlene or another lint-free cloth. See wax remover.
Create adhesion
Sandpaper P100-P120
A light, lengthwise roughening helps the base binder adhere better. You want to dull the surface, not sand down the base.
Durable base layer
Base binder
A thin base layer improves durability, especially on longer tours and in abrasive tracks. See base wax for grip.
Adapt to the conditions
Today’s hard kick wax
Choose according to snow type and the product’s temperature range. See all hard kick wax.
Even out the layers
Synthetic cork and waxing iron
A synthetic cork is used between each layer. A clean waxing iron is useful when the base wax needs to be ironed in. See cork and blocks.
Grip waxing with hard kick wax - step by step
Work methodically and apply thin layers. It is easier to add a layer than to rescue a thick and uneven wax application.
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Secure the ski and check the kick zone
Mount the ski securely in a waxing profile or ski holder. Check the markings for the front and rear limits of the kick zone. You can also tape the boundaries if you want to protect the glide zones.
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Scrape and clean if needed
Scrape off old and dirty hard kick wax as well as wax in the groove. Then moisten the kick zone with wax remover, let it work according to the instructions, and wipe clean with a lint-free cloth. Let the zone dry completely. For a simple fine-tuning of a clean wax job, you do not always need to start over from a clean base.
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Roughen lightly along the length of the ski
Use P100-P120 and work lightly from tip to tail within the kick zone. Wipe away dust and loose fibers. Do this after the glide zones have been fully prepared so that glide wax does not contaminate the kick zone.
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Apply a thin base wax layer
Rub on or apply a thin, even layer. Iron in the base binder with a clean waxing iron as directed by the product. Keep the iron moving, let the wax cool and cork it smooth. For liquid base binder, follow the product's drying time and smoothing instructions instead. Work in good ventilation.
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Build today’s grip wax in thin layers
Rub the tin lightly over the grip zone and cork out the wax until the surface is smooth. Usually count on about 4-7 thin layers, but adjust according to camber, zone, conditions and distance. When combining two tins, the softer or warmer wax is often applied underneath and a harder or colder wax as a cover layer - always follow the recommendations of the current waxing system.
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Cool the skis, test them and fine-tune
Let the skis reach outdoor temperature before setting off, especially in damp fresh snow around freezing. If they slip on the kick, add one or two thin layers underfoot or move one step towards a softer wax. If the wax drags, check the amount and the ends of the zone. If snow freezes onto it, remove the snow first and let the ski cool. A thin, harder cover layer may then reduce the risk of further icing.
Watch the steps on video
See how each step is carried out. The videos cover cleaning, roughening, base binder and the day's hard grip wax. Finish with Gunde Svan's walkthrough if you like.
Step 2
Clean the grip zone
Scrape off old wax and clean the zone before building up a completely new wax application.
Watch the video on YouTube
Step 3
Roughen the grip zone
A light longitudinal roughening gives the base binder a better surface to bond to.
Watch the video on YouTube
Step 4
Heat in base grip wax
A thin, even base improves durability when the wax needs to last a long time.
Watch the video on YouTube
Step 5
Apply today’s hardwax
Build grip with several thin layers and cork evenly between each layer.
Watch the video on YouTube
Summary
Gunde Svan’s tips on grip wax
A complete walkthrough of how to apply grip wax, produced in collaboration with Swix.
Watch the video on YouTubeHow to choose the right hardwax
Colours and temperature ranges differ between brands. Follow the label on your particular wax and use the overview below to help you choose, rather than as a universal colour code.
Cold, fresh, and dry snow
- Characteristics
- The snow feels dry, light, and sometimes squeaky. The crystals are sharp.
- Waxing approach
- Choose a hard grip wax intended for cold conditions. Thin, well-corked layers give the least drag.
- Common mistake
- A wax that is too soft can collect crystals and start to ice up.
Typical winter conditions and fine-grained snow
- Characteristics
- Stable sub-zero temperatures and tracks that are neither glossy nor particularly wet.
- Waxing approach
- Choose a hardwax with a range suited to the day's temperature and build up the usual thin layers.
- Common mistake
- Too few layers or a poor base can cause the grip to wear off during the tour.
Fine-grained snow near 0 °C
- Characteristics
- Falling or new snow that is damp but not yet coarse-grained.
- Waxing approach
- Use a softer grip wax and consider a thinner, harder top layer to reduce icing.
- Common mistake
- Warm skis or too soft a surface wax can cause snow to stick under the ski.
Coarse, glazed, wet or icy snow
- Characteristics
- Rounded grains, hard tracks, glazed ice or visible water in the snow.
- Waxing approach
- Grip wax is often not enough. Move on to the guide to klister.
- Common mistake
- Applying softer and softer grip wax even though the snow type requires klister.
Fine-tune without ruining the glide
Make one change at a time and test the skis. That way you know which adjustment actually made a difference.
More grip underfoot
If the skis are slipping slightly, one or two extra thin layers directly under the binding may be enough. Start there before extending the entire grip zone.
One step softer
If the wax is too hard for the conditions, apply a slightly softer hardwax on top. Cork it into a thin layer and test again.
Protect the glide
If the skis feel slow, first check thickness, evenness and the ends of the zone. More grip wax is rarely the solution to poor glide.
Common problems and solutions
Grip problems are not always caused by the amount of wax. Also check the snow type, camber and grip zone.
- Slipping
- The wax may be too hard, the layers too few or the grip zone too short. First apply a thin layer underfoot or try a slightly softer hardwax.
- Snow sticking
- The surface wax is often too soft or the ski too warm. Remove the snow, let the ski cool and try a thin, harder cover layer.
- The wax wears off
- The grip zone may be poorly roughened or lacking base binder. Abrasive man-made snow and long tours require a durable base.
- Slow glide
- The grip wax may be too thick, too soft, or extend too far into the ends of the zone. Scrape and smooth it out before shortening the zone.
- Uneven surface
- Strokes that are too thick or insufficient corking cause streaks and clumps. Cork each thin layer until the surface feels smooth.
- Grip varies
- The conditions can vary between sun, shade and different snow types. A compromise grip wax or a dedicated zero-conditions setup may be needed.
Frequently asked questions about grip wax tins
How many layers of grip wax should I apply?
About 4-7 thin layers is a common starting point. The exact number depends on the ski's camber, grip zone, snow, distance and how durable the grip needs to be. Cork carefully between each layer.
Do I always have to use base binder?
No, a short spontaneous outing can work without it. Base binder is still recommended when you want better durability, especially on longer tours, in abrasive snow and when building up a completely new wax job.
Can I apply new grip wax on top of the old one?
Yes, if the old wax is clean, even and suitable as a base for the new one, you can often fine-tune on top of it. Clean it off completely when the wax is dirty, uneven, very soft or mixed with klister.
Why am I getting kick slip despite several layers?
The wax may be too hard for the conditions, the grip zone may be marked incorrectly, or the ski may be too stiff. First apply a thin layer underfoot or try a slightly softer wax. If that does not help, the camber and grip zone should be checked.
What should I do if snow freezes onto the base under the ski?
Scrape off the frozen snow without heating the ski. The top layer of grip wax is often too soft, or the ski is too warm. Cool the ski and apply a thin harder cover layer. In some zero conditions, a more specialized wax setup is needed.
Should I heat in every layer of hardwax?
No. Normally, the base binder is heated in, while the hardwax chosen for the day's conditions is rubbed on and corked smooth layer by layer. Some advanced setups differ, so follow the instructions for the waxing system you use.
Can I use grip wax remover on the glide zones?
Use grip wax remover only in the kick zone and on surfaces where it is intended to be used. The glide zones should be cleaned with methods and products designed for glide bases.
When should I switch from hardwax to klister?
When the snow is coarse-grained, transformed, wet, glossy, or icy, klister normally provides better grip and durability. Temperature alone is not enough to make the decision - the snow type is at least as important.
Everything for reliable grip
Find hardwax and base wax for today’s conditions
Choose hardwax according to snow type and temperature, and build a durable base underneath. Contact us if you want help combining products for specific conditions.
Back to cross-country guides