Vallaboden - end-of-season care for alpine skis

Summer storage for alpine skis - how to protect bases and steel edges

When the last ski day is done, clean the base as needed, dry the steel edges, and apply a protective wax layer over the entire base. Here you get a clear workflow with both traditional storage wax and an alternative without a waxing iron.

Alpine skis About a 10-minute read Updated August 2026
Vallaboden's main rule Put your skis away dry and clean, leave a protective wax layer on the entire base, and make sure the steel edges are free from moisture and active rust.
DryThe whole ski, binding and steel edges must be dry.
CleanBrush first and wet-clean only when needed.
ProtectLeave solid protective wax or BPL over the whole base.
StoreDry, dark and without pressing the skis tightly together.

After the final run

Four things to finish before your skis take a break

The basic principle is simple: clean the base and leave a protective wax layer on. Here we also cover steel edges, bindings and storage conditions.

A completely dry ski

Remove moisture and spring snow first

Let the skis dry in the open at room temperature. Dry the topsheets, bases, steel edges and bindings before cleaning or waxing.

Do not enclose damp skis in a ski bag or roof box.
Clean base

Clean as needed - not out of habit

Brush first. Use glide wax cleaner when dirt remains and hot scrape only when the base is clearly dirty deeper down.

A sound base should not be exposed to more solvent than necessary.
Dry steel edges

Deal with rust and burrs before storage

Dry the steel, inspect the edges in good light and polish off surface rust or small burrs with a diamond stone. Deep rust or damage calls for a more substantial decision.

Do not change the edge angle just because the skis are going into storage.
Decide how to address damage

Note what needs repairing

Check scratches, looseness, brakes and visible damage. Repair now or clearly note what must be done before next winter.

What you notice in April is easy to forget when the snow returns.

Inspect before treating

Six decisions determine how much work is needed

Support the ski securely in good light and choose the gentlest method that leaves it clean, dry and well protected.

Is the ski completely dry?

Moisture under the wax or around the binding must dry before the ski is treated, strapped together or stored.

Is the base just dusty?

Brushing and wiping may be enough. Wet cleaning is needed only when dirt and old residue remain.

Is there surface rust or are there burrs?

Polish lightly with a suitable diamond stone. Leave deep damage and heavy rust for a more thorough edge service.

Are there scratches or dry patches?

Small marks can be documented. Deep damage, loose fragments or destroyed structure should be repaired before applying the protective layer.

Does the ski need hot scraping?

Do it when the cleaning wax keeps coming off discoloured. Skip the step when the base is already clean.

Are the topsheet and binding clean?

Wipe off salt, dirt and wax residue. Check for visible damage without changing binding settings at random.

Summer storage step by step

From the last ski day to summer protection in nine steps

Work calmly and keep cleaning cloths, brushes and edge tools clean. Skip deep cleaning when the ski is already in good condition.

  1. Let the skis dry at room temperature

    Wipe away snow, water and visible dirt after the final outing. Leave the skis in the open until the bases, steel edges, brakes and bindings are completely dry.

    Do not start cleaning a cold ski while condensation is still forming.
  2. Clean the topsheet, sides and bindings

    Wipe dirt and wax residue from the topsheets. Check brakes, screws and visible damage without making your own changes to the binding's safety settings.

    Note anything that needs checking by a workshop or before the first run.
  3. Keep the ski brakes clear while working

    Use strong rubber bands or brake retainers to access the whole base. Check they are secure before brushing, scraping or waxing.

    Remove the bands when the work is done. The brakes should not remain held up all summer.
  4. Brush and assess the base

    Brush from tip to tail and wipe off loose dust. Inspect the structure, dry patches, scratches and previous repairs before choosing the cleaning level.

    Good light makes it easier to distinguish dirt from actual base damage.
  5. Clean the base at the right level

    Use glide wax cleaner when the base is dirty. For deeper dirt, iron in a soft cleaning wax and scrape it off while still warm. Repeat only until the wax comes off clean.

    Base Cleaner intended for hard grip wax and klister should not be used as a general cleaner on alpine ski bases.
  6. Check and polish the steel edges

    Dry the steel and remove surface rust or small burrs with a dampened diamond stone. Follow the existing angle with light, even pressure.

    Heavy rust, major impacts and altered geometry require a full edge service.
  7. Assess scratches and other damage

    Remove loose fragments and decide whether damage can be left, repaired at home or taken to a workshop. Major repairs or stone grinding are best done before the protective layer.

    Record the decision so a postponed problem does not become a surprise in November.
  8. Protect the entire base

    Choose solid glide wax applied with an iron, or a product expressly intended as liquid storage protection. Cover the entire base evenly from tip to tail and follow the product instructions.

    A thick, uneven layer creates more work, but not automatically better protection.
  9. Leave the protective layer on and store the skis

    Leave solid protective wax unscraped and unbrushed. Let BPL dry and leave it on too. Remove the brake bands, label the skis and store them in a dry, dark place protected from dust, intense heat and moisture.

    When winter arrives, scrape and brush off the protection before applying the day's wax.

Two good protection methods

Hot-applied protective wax or BPL without an iron

Both methods leave a protective layer over the base. Choose the one you can apply cleanly, evenly and according to the product instructions.

Traditional method

Solid glide wax left unscraped

Iron an even layer of solid glide wax over the whole base. Keep the iron moving and follow the recommended wax temperature. Once the entire surface is covered, let the ski cool and store it without scraping or brushing.

  • Provides robust protection against dust and drying out.
  • PS6 or a suitable base prep wax can be used according to the product's guidance.
  • Scrape and brush only when you take the skis out next season.
Without a waxing iron

Base Protection Liquid left to dry on the base

BPL is designed for storage and transport. Apply a thin, even layer over the whole base, let it dry and leave the protection on until the ski is used again.

  • Convenient when you do not have an iron or a full waxing setup.
  • Apply at room temperature and follow the stated drying time.
  • Remove the layer with a scraper and brushes as directed for the product.
Clean base

Skip hot scraping

If the surface is clean after brushing or mild glide wax cleaning, go straight to the protective layer.

Deep-seated dirt

Hot scrape with soft preparation wax

Iron in and scrape while the wax is warm. Repeat only until the removed wax no longer carries visible dirt.

Dry or damaged base

Clean, assess and repair first

A protective layer does not fix deep scratches or damaged structure. Have necessary workshop work done before the summer break.

The alpine-specific step

The steel edges should be dry, smooth and free of active rust

Summer storage is a good opportunity to spot problems, but not a reason to change angles or remove more steel than the ski needs.

Work carefully

Preserve the existing angle

For light surface rust and small burrs, a lubricated diamond stone and a few controlled passes in a file guide are often enough. Dry the steel thoroughly afterwards.

Important: do not make aggressive filing a routine pre-summer task. Deep rust, major impacts or an unknown angle should be assessed as a separate edge job.
  1. Dry and inspect the whole edge

    Check especially under the binding and near the ski's widest points, where moisture and burrs are easily missed.

  2. Remove light surface rust

    Use a suitable diamond stone with light pressure and follow the existing angle. Wipe clean afterwards.

  3. Polish off small burrs

    A smooth edge is easier to protect and less likely to develop new rust than one with damaged, raised areas.

  4. Have major damage properly serviced

    If the edge is cracked, heavily corroded or clearly deformed, do not hide it under a storage layer.

The right place between seasons

Dry, dark and without unnecessary strain

Good waxing will not help if the skis then spend the summer damp, hot or pressed tightly together.

Choose a dry, stable environment

Store the skis away from moisture, large temperature changes and direct sunlight. A dry storage room is better than a damp cellar or hot roof box.

Let the skis rest without force

The skis can stand or lie down as long as they are not bent or pressed against hard points. Use soft ski straps and do not bind the pair tightly together.

Release the brakes and remove retaining bands

Remove rubber bands and brake retainers after waxing. Do not change the binding's DIN setting without the necessary knowledge and manufacturer's instructions.

Checklist before storing the skis

  • Bases, topsheets, bindings and steel edges are completely dry.
  • The base has been brushed and cleaned as much as its condition requires.
  • Surface rust and small burrs have been removed or documented.
  • There is a clear decision on scratches, looseness and other damage.
  • The whole base is covered with solid protective wax or dried BPL.
  • Brake retainers have been removed and the skis labelled for next winter.
  • The storage place is dry, dark and protected from intense heat.
  • The skis stand or lie without being tightly compressed or bent.

Products for the process

Clean, check and protect with the right tools

Here you will find products for cleaning, edge care and storage protection. Choose only the products actually needed for your chosen method.

Frequently asked questions

Questions about summer storage of alpine skis

Answers about protective wax, steel edges, bindings and storage between seasons.

No. Brush and inspect first. Hot scraping is appropriate when the base is clearly dirty deeper down or the cleaning wax keeps coming off discoloured. An already clean base can go straight from light cleaning to the protective layer.

A better start next winter

Half an hour in spring saves a whole evening when the snow arrives

The most important thing is not to do the most steps, but to put away a dry and documented ski with the base and steel edges properly protected.

When next winter comes, you should be able to scrape and brush off the protective layer, check the edges, and move on with the day’s wax without first having to deal with last spring’s dirt or rust.

Go to the alpine section