Vallaboden - beginner's guide

Different types of cross-country skis and how they are waxed

Skin skis, waxable classic skis and skate skis need to be maintained in different ways. Here you get a simple overview of what provides grip, which surfaces should be glide waxed, and which type of ski suits different skiers.

Cross-country skis8 min readUpdated July 2026

First: the difference between classic and skate

Cross-country skis work differently depending on skiing style. When you know where the ski should provide grip and where it should glide, waxing becomes much easier.

Classic needs both grip and glide

Under the middle of the foot there is a grip zone. In front of and behind it are the glide zones. Grip is created with skins, grip wax, or a patterned grip zone.

Skate needs glide over the entire ski

Skate skis have no grip zone. The push-off is created with the ski edge, and the entire base is treated as a glide surface.

The ski's camber determines how the zones work

When you stand on both skis, the grip zone should normally sit slightly above the snow. When you load one ski, it should be possible to press it down and get grip.

Quick comparison of the most common ski types

Here you can see what provides grip, which surfaces should be glide waxed, and which maintenance is most important.

Swipe the table sideways on mobile to compare all three ski types.

Grip, glide wax and care for skin skis, waxable skis and skate skis.
ComparisonClassicSkin skis

An integrated skin strip in the grip zone provides grip when you load the ski.

ClassicWaxable skis

Grip wax or klister in the kick zone is matched to the temperature and snow type.

SkatingSkating skis

The ski has no kick zone. Propulsion is created by pushing off with the edge.

GripThe skin strip under the foot.Grip wax or klister in the marked kick zone.No grip wax and no skin strip.
Glide waxOn the glide zones in front of and behind the skin strip.On the glide zones in front of and behind the kick zone.Over the entire base from tip to tail.
CareCleaning and impregnation with products intended for skin skis.Remove old grip wax, clean, and build a new even layer.Cleaning, glide waxing, and thorough brushing.
Suitable forThose who want to ski classic with simple and reliable handling.Those who want to fine-tune grip and glide to the day’s conditions.Those who ski skate in groomed tracks and want speed and direct response.

Skin skis - easy grip for classic skiing

Skin skis have a strip of synthetic fiber or mohair in the ski’s kick zone. The fibers provide grip during the kick and at the same time must release from the snow when the ski is unweighted.

Underside of the ski

Schematic diagram, not to scale.

Skin skis are usually the easiest choice for those who want to ski classic without choosing grip wax or klister before every outing. They work in many conditions, but they are not maintenance-free.

  • The glide zones need glide wax just like other cross-country skis.
  • The skin insert should be kept clean from dirt, klister residue, and contamination from the track.
  • Impregnation reduces water absorption and the risk of icing in wet snow.
  • Use products intended for skin skis. Regular wax cleaner can be too strong for the skin and adhesive.
  1. Glide wax front and rear

    Apply liquid or hot glide wax to the glide zones. Keep the wax away from the skin insert itself.

  2. Clean the skin when needed

    Use a skin cleaner when the fibers are visibly dirty or when grip and glide have deteriorated. Always follow the product instructions.

  3. Impregnate for damp and variable conditions

    A skin impregnation helps the fibers repel water and can reduce the risk of snow freezing onto them.

Waxable classic skis - the greatest ability to fine-tune grip

On traditional classic skis, you create the grip yourself. Hardwax is normally used in colder, finer snow, and klister when the snow is coarse, icy, transformed, or wet.

Underside of the ski

Schematic diagram, not to scale.

The grip wax is applied only in the grip zone under the foot. The length of the grip zone depends on the ski's camber, your weight, and how the ski has been fitted. That is why it is wise to have a ski shop mark out the zone.

  • Hardwax is applied in several thin layers and corked smooth between the layers.
  • Klister should also be applied thinly and evenly. A layer that is too thick can slow the ski down and collect dirt.
  • The glide zones are waxed separately and should not get any grip wax on them.
  • The choice between hardwax and klister is governed more by the snow structure than by air temperature alone.
  1. Check and mark the grip zone

    Start from a correctly fitted zone. An unnecessarily long grip zone can impair glide, and a zone that is too short can give poor grip.

  2. Lightly roughen and apply a durable binder layer

    If needed, lightly roughen the grip zone and apply a base binder that helps today's grip wax stay on longer.

  3. Choose hardwax or klister based on the snow

    Read our guide to different snow types and follow the temperature range on the relevant product.

  4. Build thin rather than thick

    Several thin, even layers are easier to control than one thick layer. Test the skis before applying more.

Skate skis - the entire base should glide

In skate skiing, you create the push-off by edging the ski and pushing off with the edge. Therefore, no grip wax and no skin strip are needed.

Underside of the ski

Schematic diagram, not to scale.

On skate skis, the entire base is treated as a glide zone. A liquid glide wax is a quick and easy solution, while hot waxing normally gives a more durable result and better care of the base.

  • Clean the base when it is dirty and always brush in the ski's direction of travel.
  • Choose glide wax based on temperature, snow type and how much work you want to put in.
  • After hot waxing, let the wax cool as directed by the manufacturer before scraping and brushing away the excess. The base structure should be free of visible wax residue.
  • Structure and rilling become more important when you want to optimize glide for specific conditions.
  1. Clean and brush

    Remove dirt and old loose material so the new glide wax has a clean surface to work with.

  2. Apply glide wax over the entire base

    Use liquid glide wax for quick treatment, or heat in solid glide wax when you want better durability.

  3. Scrape and brush thoroughly

    Let the wax cool as directed by the manufacturer. Then scrape the groove and base, and brush until the structure is clear and the surface feels even.

Which type of ski suits you?

The choice starts with how you want to ski. Then come your level of ambition, maintenance, and how much you want to be able to fine-tune the skis.

Choose skin skis for easy classic skiing

They are a good choice when you want to get out quickly, have consistent grip in many conditions, and avoid choosing grip wax before every outing.

Choose waxable skis for more control

They are suitable when you want to match the grip exactly to the day's conditions and are prepared to spend a little more time in the wax room.

Choose skate skis when you ski freestyle

Skate skis are built for skating, with a different camber and a different length than classic skis. They are not a substitute for a classic ski.

Common mistakes when starting to wax cross-country skis

Most problems can be avoided by keeping the grip zone, skin and glide zones separate.

Glide wax on skin
Keep regular glide wax away from the skin strip. Instead, use products specifically intended for skins.
Grip wax too far forward and back
Grip wax outside the fitted grip zone can slow the ski down and make it difficult to clean.
Regular cleaner on skin
Strong solvents can affect the skin and glue. Choose a cleaning product adapted for skins.
No glide wax on skin skis
The skin only creates the grip. The glide zones still need to be cleaned and waxed.
More wax when grip is poor
Poor grip can be due to the wrong zone, the wrong camber or the wrong type of wax. A thicker layer is not always the solution.
Wax left on top of the base
After hot waxing, the excess should be scraped and brushed off so that the ski's structure is exposed.

Frequently asked questions about cross-country skis and waxing

Do skin skis need to be waxed?

Yes. You do not need regular grip wax, but the glide zones should be glide waxed. The skin strip also needs to be cleaned as needed and can be impregnated to reduce water absorption and icing.

Can I apply glide wax to the skin strip?

No, regular glide wax should not be applied to the skin strip. Use a skin-specific impregnation or booster product on the skin, and apply glide wax to the ski's glide zones.

What is the difference between hardwax and klister?

Hardwax is used mainly in cold, dry and fine-grained snow. Klister is used when the snow is coarse, icy, transformed or wet. The snow type is at least as important as the temperature.

Where is the kick zone on classic skis?

The kick zone is located under the foot around the binding, but the exact length depends on the ski's camber and your weight. It is a good idea to have a ski shop measure and mark the zone.

Should the entire skate ski be glide waxed?

Yes. A skate ski has no kick zone, so the entire base is a glide surface. After hot waxing, the entire base should be scraped and brushed thoroughly.

Which cross-country ski is easiest for a beginner?

For classic skiing, skin skis are often the easiest because they provide grip without you needing to choose grip wax or klister. The most important thing, however, is that the ski has the right length and camber for your weight and skiing.

The right products for your skis

Take care of grip, glide, and skins the right way

See skin products for cleaning and impregnation, or find glide wax for glide zones and skate skis. Contact us when you want help choosing.

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