Vallaboden - race waxing
Start's RG system can be built simply or in a more advanced way. Begin with a stable foundation, choose the day's wax based on temperature and snow, and only add a specialty product or topping when you know what improvement it is meant to provide.
Choose how far to take it
A well-prepared base and one well-chosen layer can be enough. Add more steps only when you have time to finish them properly and can test the result.
Apply a durable base, then choose a solid or liquid RG Race wax for the day's temperature and snow. Complete all scraping and brushing.
Prioritise a stable base, a temperature-matched solid layer and, if needed, a liquid Race or Ultra wax for fine-tuning before the start.
Build the base, choose the day's Ultra layer and add Graphite, Molybdenum, gel or spray only when tests show a benefit in the current conditions.
Each extra product can improve, leave unchanged or worsen the result. It depends on snow, base grind, skis, application and how the layers interact. Topping should therefore be a tested choice, not a compulsory ritual.
Five roles in one system
Waxing is easier to build when you distinguish the base, daily glide layer, specialist additive and final finish. This avoids applying several products that serve the same purpose.
A primer giving the day's wax an even, durable surface to bond to. Choose it for its function, not the day's colour.
Solid and liquid race waxes covering a full temperature range without always moving up to Ultra.
Start's more advanced solid and liquid range. Use it when you expect to benefit from the higher level, ideally with an opportunity to compare.
Thin topping products applied to an already fully waxed ski. They do not replace a good base, clear structure or the right rilling.
Specialist products for particular snow types. Graphite targets cold, slow fresh snow, while Molybdenum is useful in old, dirty and transformed snow.
Read the conditions before the label
Temperature gives a range. Snow age, water content and abrasiveness determine how the wax performs and how complex a layering system makes sense.
Use the product's own temperature guidance. Start's solid, liquid and gel ranges do not always share the same intervals.
Do not choose a colour from memory - read the label on the exact product you use.Sharp fresh crystals, rounded old snow and aggressive artificial snow create different friction and wear.
The snow type may justify Graphite, Molybdenum or a completely different structure.In wetter conditions, water drainage, base grind and rilling become more important. A topping cannot rescue a completely unsuitable structure.
Wax and structure must work together.A sprint test and a long race do not always share the same priorities. Long distances and artificial snow demand more from the base and durability.
Build durability first, then fine-tune.The same wax can perform differently on two grinds or ski pairs. Documented tests are worth more than a general ranking.
Change one variable at a time and record the result.A product may match the temperature but still be wrong for the snow type or race distance. Always assess the snow, track and base structure before adding a specialist product or topping.
Race glide starts beneath the day's wax
Choose the base for the ski's condition, snow abrasiveness and race distance. A hard, durable base can help in some conditions. Use a recipe you have tested on that ski pair.
Brush off wax dust and assess whether the ski needs routine glide cleaning or a deeper reset. Race waxing should not seal in old dirt.
Make sure the structure is clear and the skis suit the conditions. More layers cannot compensate for the wrong grind or unsuitable skis.
RG Race Base provides the system's foundation. A harder temperature wax can be used for a tested reason, such as long distance or aggressive snow.
Do not make green hard wax a compulsory layer at every temperature.Base, red, violet, blue and green do not need the same temperature. Let the iron stabilise and keep it moving continuously.
Use enough wax for the iron to glide over a continuous film, but avoid thick pools that only create extra scraping.
Scrape only once the wax and base have returned to room temperature. Harder wax rewards patience and a very sharp plexiglass scraper.
Clear the centre groove, scrape the glide zones and brush until the structure is clean. Apply the next layer to a finished surface, not thick excess wax.
Solid RG Race or RG Ultra
Solid wax gives a robust, controllable layering process. Race is a strong main choice. Ultra is the next level when the race, skis and testing opportunities justify it.
Both come as temperature-specific solid glide waxes. Use the difference thoughtfully, not as an automatic upgrade.
Follow the same controlled procedure each time. This lets you compare waxes and skis without application becoming the main uncertainty.
Choose by the label while also checking snow type and track conditions.
An even film, correct iron temperature and an iron that keeps moving.
Let the wax set completely before working on the excess.
Scrape, brush with metal and polish until the structure is fully clean.
Quick fine-tuning or a full race layer
Start's liquid race waxes can go over a good hot-waxed base or serve as the day's temperature-specific layer. Drying, corking and brushing often make the difference between a quick result and a really good one.
The ski must be scraped, brushed and clean. Liquid wax should not hide wax residue or a clogged structure.
Spread the wax evenly with the built-in applicator. Aim for full coverage without runs or thick patches.
Work at room temperature and wait until the surface reaches the state specified in the instructions. Insufficient drying causes uneven finishing.
Choose the method suited to the product and your preparation level. Rotary cork can work efficiently and evenly, but needs control and light pressure.
Remove excess and polish the surface. Start with controlled strokes and inspect the structure rather than brushing by habit.
Finish with a clean fibre cloth. The surface should be even, dry and free of lumps or a thick white film.
The final layer is optional
Both go onto an already fully waxed ski. They should not compensate for a wrong base, unsuitable temperature wax or a structure still filled with wax.
The gel comes in temperature-specific versions and is worked in as a very thin top layer. Ski, product and tools should be at room temperature.
The spray is a final race layer with a broad range of use. It can help in some conditions, but should be compared with the same wax setup without spray.
Compare a ski with Finisher Spray against the same base waxing without spray. An extra layer can improve or reduce glide depending on conditions and application. Use experience from similar snow and let the test decide.
Two products for specific snow types
Do not apply the black specialist products out of habit. Choose them when the snow actually has the properties they were developed for.
Graphite is useful when very cold, sharp crystals create dry friction and the characteristic squeaking sound. It can be used in a blend or specialist layer according to the product's method.
Molybdenum targets a broad range of conditions with old, coarse or dirty snow grains. It is especially relevant on artificial snow and refrozen, abrasive spring snow.
Graphite and Molybdenum address different friction types. Do not automatically combine both with the day's colour wax, liquid Ultra, gel and spray in one setup. Start with the smallest change you can evaluate.
Fully finish each layer
Adapt brushing to the product and follow Start's instructions for that wax. The overview shows the sequence. Brush choice and the amount of work can vary between products.
Scrape first. Then open the structure with a suitable steel or bronze brush and finish finer.
Let the product dry, work it in as instructed and polish until the surface is even.
Work the gel in before it sits as thick excess. Wipe off and finish with the right brushes.
The spray should not leave a sticky or uneven surface. Follow the product's finishing method.
Make waxing measurable
Race glide depends on so many variables that a single impression can mislead. A simple, consistent test method is worth more than another wax in the box.
Use two ski pairs or skis as similar as possible and keep everything except one variable constant.
Even when a test gives a clear result, check that the difference is not caused by something else.
Careful Start waxing can give very good race glide. Skis, grind, structure, snow and skier also affect the result. Use this guide as a starting point and build on repeatable results from your own tests.
Build the system step by step
Start with the base and the day's glide wax. Here the products are grouped by their role, from base preparation to the final finish.
Products that give the day's wax a stable foundation or address specific issues with cold and dirty snow.
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Base wax that gives today's solid or liquid RG layer an even and durable surface to bond to.
Follow the product's iron temperature and finish the layer completely before applying the next wax.
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Graphite product for very cold, squeaky and sharp fresh snow where dry friction becomes pronounced.
Use as a tested special adjustment together with today's cold wax, not as a standard layer.
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Molybdenum for old, coarse, dirty and transformed snow as well as abrasive man-made snow.
Choose according to snow type and track, not solely by the broad temperature range.
Temperature-specific solid race waxes for durability, control and a fully finished main layer.
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Solid Race wax for a typical mid-range around a few degrees below zero.
A good main layer when you want a high level without automatically moving up to Ultra.
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Solid Race wax for colder winter conditions where hardness and durability become important.
Let it cool properly and use a really sharp plexi scraper.
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Solid Ultra layer for race preparation in the violet temperature range.
Preferably compare with RG Race on the same ski type before deciding on the race-day recipe.
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Solid Ultra wax for colder race conditions and demanding preparation.
Follow the label's iron temperature and brush until all visible structure is clear.
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Very hard Ultra wax for really cold conditions.
Use it for the right cold conditions or as a tested durable base layer - not as a mandatory layer in all temperatures.
Quick temperature matching over a well-prepared base, with corking or more advanced race preparation options.
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Liquid temperature wax for violet conditions on top of a clean and well-prepared base.
Apply thinly, let dry, and work in according to the product's current instructions.
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Liquid Race wax for colder temperatures and quick race adaptation.
Finish with a nylon brush and check that no thick white film remains.
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Quick graphite adjustment for cold and squeaky fresh snow.
Test against the same cold temperature wax without graphite before an important race.
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Liquid special wax for old, dirty, coarse and transformed snow.
Particularly interesting in man-made snow and spring snow that has refrozen.
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Liquid Ultra wax for full race preparation in violet conditions.
Work on a room-temperature ski and give drying and polishing the same care as solid wax.
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Liquid Ultra wax for colder race conditions.
Choose according to the current product label, as the range differs from the solid blue Ultra wax.
Thin final layers for tested full preparation. Apply them to a ski that is already fully waxed and brushed.
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Water-based gel finisher for a wide range around zero and a few degrees below freezing.
Work it in very thinly while the gel is wet, wipe off excess, and brush according to the method.
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Gel finisher for colder race conditions.
Use on an already fully waxed surface and always test against the same recipe without gel.
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Broad Finisher Spray layer for the final fine-tuning of a finished race ski.
Apply sparingly and only when testing or your previous wax log shows that the spray helps in the conditions.
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Hard nylon brush for working and polishing Start's liquid products.
Keep the brush clean and use a separate finer finish if the product method requires it.
Explore the system further
Start products are only part of the result. A clean waxing process, correct brushing, suitable rilling and a consistent basic method matter just as much.
The process for solid and liquid glide wax, scraping, brushing and base checks.
Read the guide FinishSee what steel, bronze, horsehair, nylon and rotary cork do at each stage.
Read the guide StructureLearn when fine, straight, V-shaped or coarser structure can improve water drainage and glide.
Read the guide Competition rulesKeep Start waxing within a clean, fluor-free process if older skis, brushes or the waxing room have a fluor history.
Read the guideFrequently asked questions
The key is to give each product a clear role. Then you know what can be simplified, what needs testing and which step actually made a difference.
RG Race is a complete racing option in solid and liquid form. RG Ultra is Start's higher race level and is also available as solid and liquid wax as well as in a dedicated finisher series. Choose Ultra when the race and the opportunity to test justify it - not because more or more expensive layers automatically give better glide.
No. Base is a good way to create an even and durable system foundation, especially before long-distance races and important competitions. On an already well-prepared base, today's solid wax can sometimes be applied directly. The important thing is that you know the starting point and use the same method when comparing results.
No. A hardwearing base layer can be valuable in cold, aggressive snow or over long distances, but it is not a universal layer for all temperatures. Use green wax when the conditions or a tested recipe support it. Otherwise, RG Race Base or a simpler base may be better.
Solid wax normally provides a robust and durable foundation. Liquid Race or Ultra is quicker to adapt to temperature and can provide very good race glide on top of a well-prepared ski. For long-distance racing, the combination of a solid base and liquid fine-tuning is often logical, but the final choice should be tested.
Some Start products and methods allow heat, but this should not be done as a general rule for all liquid waxes. Follow the instructions for the specific bottle and stick to the stated temperature and procedure. If you are unsure, use the standard dry, cork, and brush method.
No. Gel and spray are alternative or complementary final layers for advanced ski preparation. Start with a finished recipe without topping, then test one product at a time. The spray should not be applied just because it exists - it can change the result both positively and negatively.
Graphite is primarily of interest in very cold, squeaky and sharp fresh snow where dry friction is evident. Use it as a special adjustment together with a suitable cold-temperature wax and compare against the same recipe without graphite.
Molybdenum is intended for old, transformed, dirty, and often coarse-grained snow. It is especially relevant in man-made snow or spring snow that has melted and refrozen. The snow type is more important than the fact that the product has a wide temperature range.
Let the ski return to room temperature before scraping. At least around ten minutes is a practical starting point for many waxes, preferably longer when you have time. Harder products especially require patience, a sharp scraper, and that the product's own instructions are followed.
The products in the selection are sold as fluorine-free. But the whole chain must also be clean: older skis, brushes, waxing irons, and work surfaces can carry fluorine residues. Follow current competition rules and clean the equipment if it has a fluorine history.
Vallaboden's conclusion
Start's system offers many possibilities, but you do not need to use them all at once. A clean base, the right temperature-specific product, and a fully finished structure are more important than the number of layers.
Build a standard recipe that works, change one thing at a time, and let the race log show when Race, Ultra, Graphite, Molybdenum or topping actually delivered something.
