Known fluor history
The skis have been waxed with HF, LF, powders, blocks or liquid toppings containing fluor. Fully decontaminate the room, tools and skis.
Full cleaning is recommended.
Vallaboden - fluorine-free ski care
Old fluorine residues can remain in bases, brushes, waxing tables, and ski bags. Here you get a practical workflow that cleans the entire system and helps you keep the fluorine-free waxing room clean.
More than routine ski cleaning
The ban on fluor wax is no longer a new transitional rule. Fluorinated wax and other preparation products containing fluor are prohibited across all FIS disciplines and competition levels. This also means old residues in skis, brushes, waxing benches and ski bags can cause problems even when today's wax is fluor-free.
Cleaning the base and then carrying on with the same old brush is therefore not enough. Work must follow the right order, with a clear boundary between contaminated and clean equipment.
This guide is mainly for skis and tools previously used with fluor products, or whose history is uncertain. A new setup that has always been fluor-free normally does not need this one-off decontamination.
Start with the history
The more certain you are of the skis' and tools' history, the easier the decision. If unsure, treat the setup as potentially contaminated rather than taking a chance before a race.
The skis have been waxed with HF, LF, powders, blocks or liquid toppings containing fluor. Fully decontaminate the room, tools and skis.
Full cleaning is recommended.
Used race skis, inherited tools or a wax box with an unknown product history should be treated as potentially contaminated.
Label everything before starting.
Even clean skis can be contaminated by dust, benches, profiles, clothing, bags or brushes previously used with fluor products.
Decontaminate the room before working on clean skis.
Skis, products and tools are new or documented as fluor-free and have never been in an old fluor-waxing environment. Special decontamination is normally unnecessary.
Keep the setup clean and separate.
Make it visible
Three boxes, three tape colours or three clearly labelled shelves are enough. The aim is never to have to wonder whether a brush is clean while working.
Everything that has touched fluor products or a potentially contaminated ski starts here.
This holds tools used in the cleaning process that are not yet part of the fully clean wax kit.
Only new or verified clean tools and products belong here. Nothing from the red zone may return without completed cleaning.
Large areas first, details last
FIS recommends starting with the waxing room, benches and larger surfaces, then moving to tools and skis. Reversing the order can quickly contaminate a clean ski again.
Gather skis, waxes, brushes, irons, scrapers, bags, clothing and boxes. Label items as known fluor exposure, uncertain or documented clean.
Separate fluor waxes and uncertain older products from the new range. Put old powder cloths, rags and wax residue in a designated waste container too.
Empty boxes, shelves and ski bags. Do not start on the skis while old dust and wax shavings remain around the work area.
Clean floors, benches, profiles, shelves and boxes. Vacuuming is better than dry sweeping. Use compressed air only where dust can be captured.
Wash work clothing and aprons. Vacuum and wipe ski bags, wax bags and textiles kept in the old waxing environment.
Set aside an old steel brush for the initial ski cleaning. Decide which brushes can be cleaned and which porous brushes should be replaced.
Clean scrapers and hard tools mechanically and with a suitable cleaner. Hot-clean the waxing iron with fluor-free paraffin wax and clean paper.
Follow the ski protocol using liquid cleaning, two hot-wax applications and separate brushes for the contaminated and clean stages.
Put only fully cleaned skis, clean tools and fluor-free products in the clean part of the waxing room. Label brushes and boxes clearly.
Record which skis and tools were treated, what was replaced and how many cleaning rounds were completed. Continue waxing and skiing with fluor-free products.
The ski step by step
The method follows Swix's current procedure. The first brush picks up much of the contamination and must not be carried into the clean stages.
Apply Pro Cleaner to the glide zone with Fiberlene. Work the cleaner in with an older steel brush, let the ski dry completely, then brush out the base.
This brush becomes contaminated. Mark it red and do not use it in later steps or on a fully cleaned ski.
Apply PS10 or a comparable soft, documented fluor-free glide wax. Let the ski cool, scrape and brush thoroughly with tools from the transition or clean zone.
Apply PS6 or a comparable harder glide wax. Let it cool completely, scrape and brush out the full structure with clean tools.
Repeat step A, now using a clean steel brush. The ski must no longer touch the old red brush or other tools from the contaminated zone.
For immediate use, apply the day's fluor-free glide wax. For storage, leave a protective layer of solid glide wax or use Base Protection Liquid according to its instructions.
Clean or replace?
Hard, smooth tools are often easier to clean. Porous and soft materials used with powders and liquid toppings are much harder to verify as clean.
Use an old steel brush for the first cleaning step. Hard hand brushes can be cleaned thoroughly, but new clean brushes give the most reliable control in the green zone.
Rotary fleece, rotary wool and other soft tools used with powder or liquid fluor products are difficult to verify as clean. Replacement is normally the safest choice.
Scrape off wax residue, clean every edge and groove with a suitable wax remover, then wipe with clean paper. Move them to the green zone only when completely clean and dry.
Clean the plate mechanically while the iron is cold. Then warm fluor-free glide wax on the plate and wipe with clean paper, following the iron's safety instructions.
Remove loose dust and shavings, vacuum gaps and fittings, then wipe all hard surfaces. Remember legs, holders and the underside of the profile.
Empty completely, vacuum thoroughly and wipe hard surfaces. Clean skis must not go back into a dusty bag used during the fluor era.
Wash textiles before using the new fluor-free wax kit. Otherwise, dust from old clothing can return to benches, tools and skis.
If used directly with fluor blocks, powders or toppings, they are difficult to decontaminate reliably. Do not place them in the green zone unless you know they are clean.
Decontaminate the waxing room
Once decontamination is complete, mistakes should be hard to make. Label shelves, brushes and boxes, and do not let old, uncertain products creep back into the setup.
Floors, benches, profiles and shelves first. Skis and small tools last.
Capture dust instead of moving it around with a dry brush.
Change cloths often and never move a used cloth from the red zone to the green zone.
For example RED INITIAL CLEAN, GLIDE COARSE and GLIDE FINISH.
Clean products belong in cleaned boxes, not open beside old dust.
Vacuum, wipe the bench and check brushes after each major waxing session.
Keep old fluor products, wax shavings and used cloths separate. Contact your local recycling centre and follow its chemical-waste instructions. Do not pour cleaning fluid or wax residue down drains or burn them at home.
See the workflow
The video shows the basic principle of Swix's cleaning method. Read the steps on this page before starting so the right brush is used at each stage.
Before a race
Thorough cleaning reduces risk, but no general guide can promise a pair of skis will pass every test. Official measurements and current competition rules are decisive.
Skis with a heavy fluor history should not be cleaned for the first time the night before a race. Allow time to repeat the process, wax with fluor-free products and ski on them before competing.
Products for fluor cleaning
Choose cleaners and fluor-free waxes for each stage. Keep the initial cleaning brush separate from clean finishing brushes and label tools by purpose.
Swix
Special cleaning to dissolve glide wax residue and fluorine on glide surfaces.
Vallaboden's advice: Use the old red-marked steel brush for the first round and a clean brush when the step is repeated.
Swix
Soft fluorine-free glide wax for the first hot waxing step in the cleaning protocol.
Vallaboden's advice: Let the ski cool, scrape carefully, and use tools that do not return to the red zone.
Swix
Harder fluorine-free glide wax for the next cleaning and stabilizing layer.
Vallaboden's advice: Brush out the entire structure with clean tools before repeating the liquid cleaning.
Swix
Lint-free paper for application, wiping, and checking the cleaning result.
Vallaboden's advice: Change cloths often and never move a used piece from the red zone to the green zone.
Swix
Liquid protection for glide surfaces when the cleaned ski is to be stored instead of used right away.
Vallaboden's advice: Apply only when the entire cleaning process is finished and the ski is dry.
Swix
Fine steel brush for the clean part of the protocol and for opening up the structure.
Vallaboden's advice: Mark it clearly and never allow it to be used with old fluorinated products or in the first red step.
Swix
Fine nylon brush for the final polishing after the structure has been opened.
Vallaboden's advice: Use a new or documented clean brush that is stored in the green zone.
Swix
Plexi scraper for removing the fluorine-free hot wax layers between the cleaning steps.
Vallaboden's advice: Clean edges and grooves carefully before the scraper is allowed to move to the green zone.
Swix
Waxing iron for PS10, PS6, and upcoming fluorine-free wax layers.
Vallaboden's advice: Hot-clean the base plate with fluorine-free glide wax and clean paper before the iron is used in the clean process.
Swix
Cleaner for, among other things, scrapers, waxing tables, profile, and old grip wax residue according to the product instructions.
Vallaboden's advice: Use Pro Cleaner or glide wax cleaner on the glide surfaces themselves.
Swix
Polishing cloth for the final clean wipe-down when the ski has moved to the green zone.
Vallaboden's advice: Store the roll closed and separate from old cloths and wax dust.
Frequently asked questions
Unsure about routine cleaning methods, brushes or glide waxing? Read our detailed guides too.
Normally not. If skis, products, and tools are documented fluorine-free and have never been used in an old fluorinated wax environment, normal cleaning routines are sufficient. The important thing is that the clean system is not mixed with older equipment of uncertain status.
No, not when brushes, tables, profiles, bags, or clothing have previously been used with fluorinated products. Old residue can be transferred back onto a cleaned ski. Therefore, start with the room and the larger surfaces, continue with the tools, and clean the skis last.
Hard hand brushes can be cleaned thoroughly, but Swix recommends new clean brushes for the best control. The old steel brush can be used in the first red cleaning step. Soft brushes, fleece, and wool that have been used with powder or liquid fluorinated products are harder to verify as clean and should normally be replaced.
Swix's procedure consists of liquid cleaning, a soft hot wax layer, a harder hot wax layer, and then a new liquid cleaning with a clean brush. Skis with a heavy fluorinated wax history may need the process to be repeated and should be waxed and skied on several times with fluorine-free products before racing.
Stone grinding should not be seen as a reliable shortcut. The FIS cleaning guidelines describe the result as uncertain and still recommend several hot wax applications with fluorine-free glide wax after grinding.
In this fluorinated wax decontamination method, Pro Cleaner or glide wax cleaner is used on the glide surfaces. Base Cleaner is suitable, among other things, for hard surfaces, scrapers, and removal of grip wax and klister according to the product instructions. Keep the products and tools in the correct work area.
Remove visible wax residue when the iron is cold. Then heat the plate with documented fluorine-free glide wax and wipe with clean paper according to the iron's safety instructions. Also clean the holder and the place where the iron is usually kept.
Treat them as suspected contaminated. Keep them in the red zone until full cleaning has been completed, use separate tools in the first step, and document which cycles have been carried out. Before racing, you should also allow time to wax them and ski on them with fluorine-free products.
No general home method can provide such a guarantee. Follow the cleaning protocol, keep the entire system clean, and always check the organizer's latest instructions. Where official FIS control is carried out, the current measurement is decisive.
Store old fluorinated products, wax shavings, and used cloths separately. Contact your municipality's recycling center and follow their instructions for chemical waste. Do not pour residue down the drain and do not burn it at home.
The road to the top starts in the basement
When the red, yellow, and green zones are clearly separated, fluorine-free waxing becomes much easier. You know which brushes are clean, which pairs of skis have been treated, and which products may be kept in the wax box.
Do the work methodically once, document it, and then continue with normal fluorine-free routines.