Skip to content

Waxing cross-country skis - Waxing equipment

What do you need to have in your Ski Tuning Shed? Here is a small guide with the most necessary things!!

  • A good and stable herding place, a herding profile and a paddock bench.
  • Whey iron, with temperature indication. Do not use an old iron, but an iron that is intended for ski curling. Preferably one with a thick plate, around one centimeter. They keep the temperature even and stable throughout the paraffining. The whey iron do you use for more things than melting paraffin wax. You can and should also melt in the first layer of fixing wadding so that all other wadding stays in place better. Just be very careful to clean the iron between the different types of walla.
  • Plastic sickle
  • Guide rail scraper (similar to a pen that you remove paraffin from the ski's guide groove, the groove in the middle of the ski, with)
  • Combination brush (a brush with both nylon- and brass/wire brush), If you want, feel free to invest in both a nylon brush and brass brush.
  • Fibertex cloth
  • Wheal removal agent
  • Putty shovel or steel sickle to remove roe or scrape off roe if the roe has frozen under the ski
  • tissue paper, fiberlene, so much more efficient than ordinary paper towels.
  • Sandpaper: grit size 80, 100 or 120

The things below can also be good to have but are absolutely not a must

  • Hot air gun
  • Grooving tool – A groove tool allows the water to be directed away in a good way and creates the best possible slide for the bait in question. You have the greatest effect when it is wet before. Imagine the suction that forms between two panes of glass when you pour water in between. That's the kind of craving a good structure counteracts. A 2 millimeter straight groove is a good and simple solution to divert the water when it is wet. In some bows, a rill can almost mean more than what ridge you have on the ski.
  • Thermometer to measure the snow temperature
  • Moisture meter
  • Machine-driven brushes, so-called roto brushes you fasten on screwdrivers
  • A special wax iron for heating up wax (glue and can wax)
  • A special wax iron to heat glide wax and foundation wax with

Don't forget good ventilation or protective mask


Canopies are mainly used in non-transformed snow. That is, fine-grained snow that has not been exposed to plus temperatures. Converted snow is called fresh snow that has aged for a while and been exposed to mild temperatures so that the snow crystals clump together and create coarse-grained abrasion before.

You need:

  • A red jar that says about +2 / +0 on it
  • A zero degree purple/violet jar
  • A blue can about -3 / -10 degrees below zero
  • One base wax which is always heated at the bottom so that all other walla will stay in place better, this walla has no real fastening properties.


  • A red sticky for really hot before
  • A universal adhesive plus 5 degrees to minus 5 degreesr
  • A blue sticker, violet or a base sticker, they fulfill the same function. It's a base that you heat into the bottom so that the other adhesives will stay, just like with the can quail.


You need at least three different slide ramps

  • A red for around +4 / -4 degrees
  • A blue for around -6 / -12 degrees
  • A green or black, preferably graphite wool, -10 / -20 degrees. This is used as a base for all competitions because it is durable. You can of course also use it to ride clean as it is if it is the specified temperature.
  • When there are a lot of plus degrees, there is hardly any need for skidding. It has such poor wear resistance that it doesn't stay on for long anyway.

Back to how to pack cross-country skis